Thanks Phil.

56 VIC  Gene Stoehr Sr.

Greenbirds . . All my screw-in style PCV valves went into the intake under the carburetor. A certain Z-28 had it’s screwed into the oil fill tube at the front of the intake manifold and it had a sealed 1/4 turn cap. I don’t believe oil could have ever been drawn up that high and there were no baffles. I have one of those tubes. I wonder if McTim puts baffling in the valley....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I've used those "tubes" in chrome on the finned aluminum valley covers. Fitting in the bung to the aircleaner. PCV valve in a baffle in the valley cover. I've wondered if I couldn't have saved the baffle welding in the valley cover by using the bung in the fill tube for the PCV valve as the Z used.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Not mentioned in this set of postings is the sometime issue of the valve sucking in excessive amounts of oil.  A buddy who has an aftermarket cam in his Y-block engine, has moved his valve twice & used an oil seperator, trying to reduce oil consumption thru the valve.. My setup which is off the former rear draft tube hole c/w the original baffle underneath, still shows some oil consumption. Due to the Covid 19 & so on, I haven't driven it enough to really get a handle on the level of consumption..  


Paul

The valves have differing amounts of flow capacity - if you have used one with high flow in a spot with little baffling, oil is going to be drawn to it. The Ford 292 valve made for the manifold I pictured above, did not work worth a hoot when I adapted it to the valley cover. Sucked too much oil. After a fellow showed me the manifold with the two built in throttles, a light went on in my head and I added an orifice inside the hose to the carb base. One of our members - in a past years thread,came up with a Ford valve that was used in an 80's four cylinder application that worked - without externally regulated flow. 

There is a good chance that Tim's AC valve works well with one of his freshly re-built, low blow-by motors - might not be so clean at 60K miles. I believe Ted tried out the McMasters valve in some of his engines, don't know if he kept it up or found yet a better way.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

After last weekend I have found out I did not repair my oil leaks as I mentioned above. In fact they were worse. All the places I changed gaskets were good and everything seemed to be centered on the oil filter and oil pump. I tried to no avail to remove the oil pressure bypass while under the car. I removed the oil pump and it was stuck. My oil pressure by a gauge under the car I installed was 55 warm at idle and 75-80 at 1500. I do not know how high it would have gone. I just moved the carb up on fast idle and went under to look. I normally have a warning light only.

I removed the pump and cleaned every and it is free now. I can depress the spring with a small screw driver at the small end against the case. I will run it today. I also changed the filter plate gasket after stoning it perfectly flat, filter mating surface too. The pump is a gerotor in a cast iron case and looked excellent inside.

I will finish the PCV valve plumbing as soon as I install the side plate. I choose to purchase a Ford factory one instead of making it. It arrives today. I want the engine to run and not drip oil before I finish it. Minor ok, what was happening to me no.

It will be interesting to see the inches of vacuum on the crankcase with the engine at idle. Hoping for the 2-3 since I’m going to use a Valve made for the 61-64 Ford/Merc 292 and connected the same way. I do understand the addition of an oriface in the line.

This has turned into way more than I thought and the information from others experience I’d priceless.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Start and warm was as good as could be expected. I was under the car watching the gauge and it shot to 85psi for a split second and then down to 60; to me proving the bypass is working as designed. The fast idle was up on the first setting on the rear principle carb which is normal. Within a few minutes and some warmth it was a little bit under 40 in gear idling. At 165-170 with water flowing by watching the upper tank in the radiator at idle it was 35. Fast idle hot 1500 rpm was 55. I can live with all of it. Now to fit the PCV line and get to why I started this thread..

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

This photo is not a correct source for a PCV signal. It (the manifold shown) is a 55 4V and that vacuum source is intended for the booster and vacuum pump. If used for a PVC signal, fumes will be ingested into only two cylinders, leading to possible plug fouling.



The below example of mounting the valve behind the valley pan provides no splash protection from the cam drive.



If using the CASCO KIT or just inserting a valve into the valley pan opening without the adapter does not keep the system from ingesting fumes/vapor. The OEM setup (and it was a very early CCV design) is the best method (IMO) of properly setting up a functional FYB system.

There are two PCV Systems design, one OPEN and the other (later design) CLOSED. The open draws fresh air through the oil filler cap and when the engine is shutdown, may expel excess crankcase pressure. This is what you smell after the engine is shut down.

CLOSED uses an oil filler cap with nipple to draw fresh air from the air cleaner housing (having to add a nipple) through a connecting hose.

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Now this little detail ain't nothing but class -

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Sorry "Kultulz" but I've seen multiple examples of Y engines plumbed with the PCV fed from the port shown - regardless of your preference. Seemed tto be working very well. The two orifices go into each side of the H manifold and combine the vacuum source as would be desired. Very common to find it on sixties pickups with the two barrel.

The rear entry of Tim's AC type port isn't any more exposed to the cam drive than the Ford tin..... 

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona