Ok, should I pull a main cap or two to check/plasti gauge the main bearings? On the one hand I can check clearances but on the other hand if the block is cracked due to that 56 misprint then I disturbed the crack. Dad suggested just checking #1/8 those being the furthest and hottest cylinders. Any ideas?

Mike

you can see numbers stamped on main caps so its a rebuilt.the steam holes in the block were a giveaway at any rate.

1/5 rod caps. I think they are bad or are they salvageable?

It may be an optical illusion in the pictures you posted but the bearing wear looks to be the result of too much clearance.  I have placed arrows on what the pictured wear pattern looks like on my end.  It should be wider than what the arrows show.  Doing a micrometer check of the crankshaft journal will give you an idea if that particular rod journal is undersize more than it is suppose to be.
  

  

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted. The wear pattern is on one side only and not even across the bearing surface. Either width or lengthwise. That is why I figured they were toast. I have a digital caliper that should get me close readings. But I am no machinist that is for sure. The next thing up is a main and I am assuming g they will come out similarly. I have the sinking feeling that she is going to make a long trip to see Tim the Y block guy……

Mike

Checked all of the rod bearings and they were all pretty much the same. Found two score marks on the bearings but not on the journal. One of the shells popped out and I found they were made by Clevite and the crank appears to have been ground.010. So off to order new bearings and button up the bottom end.

Mike