Unless you need the part "yesterday," it pays to shop around. 

Shipping has gotten crazy.  I needed a freeze plug set for my 312, and went to O'Reileys to get a MPE-111BR brass freeze plug set, and they cost $9.97, but would have to be shipped in for $11.95 from Melling.  Shipping would be more than the item.  I refused, and found the same parts at another parts house in stock.  I ordered a dipstick tube for the 312 Y, and the shipping was almost the same price as the tube.  Thanks to the present Administration for all this.   Joe-JDC

JDC

Where do you order them from?  

I am all set to order the gaskets but the distributors listed on the Best Gaskets website are the sketchiest I've seen since 1999.  A dead link that told me that my account had been suspended, the only one that will allow me to order anything is EGGE and they want $42 for GROUND shipping?  Half of them are just email addresses... 

I use the Best Gasket brand gaskets for the Ford Y.  The part number for the individual ‘BG’ FYB head gaskets is 572G.  Those particular head gaskets are good for up to a 3.860” bore.  Bst Gskt also makes head gaskets for the Y for the larger bores if necessary.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

So...sounds like Fel Pro is the head gasket to avoid...Which is the one to get?  I figured Mummert sold the best one and, at least that's what it's called.  Which is the one to get?

All I see is a little weep down the side of the block between the #2 bolt that you're supposed to torque.  I see no evidence (so far) of anything mixing that should not be...and I have no idea what gasket is in there.  

I got in there today and re-torqued.  The #2 and #6 bolts were the only ones (that I could get to) that moved at all with torque wrench set at 75.  Everything else was tight.  I wasn't able to get to the ones at either end of the rocker shaft because nothing would fit and I had visions of things I don't know falling off the shaft and falling into the pushrod holes and getting lost...

Fingers crossed that this worked.  If not...then I'll probably be hounding you all for tips on head gasket replacement.  

Thanks again.  

if the head bolts are original some wher not grade 8. if you are removing the head replace the bolts with grade 8.also clean the threads in bock(run a bottoming tap down all the way
by hand so you can feel any resistance.. I would  put a dab of engine oil on the new head bolts. with new comesition gaskets  you have  a 90%cance to stop the leaks

For some reason, photos posted in this forum typically appear superimposed over part of the text., so I always miss some info as a result. Still waiting for a way to fix the issue (?).
Anyway, I don’t see where the O.P. has revealed the type of head gasket, or whether the coolant leak has invaded the combustion chamber (spark plug evidence?).  
My original motor with steel gaskets became overheated & started leaking around one cylinder (weeping head/frosted plug) years ago.  I then switched to 70% propylene coolant & zero pressure radiator cap, and the leaking stopped, so I never bothered with re-torqing.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

This is the head torque info from the 1956 Ford Shop Manual.  (WSM)  The info outlined in red is for a retorque without pulling the head.  Hope this helps.




Don

There is a sequence. I did a web search and could not find an illustration. If you have a service manual the sequence will be be contained therein. You want 65 to 75 foot pounds.