If you are serious about drag racing the Thunderbird, then I would highly recommend using a lightweight aluminum wheel for that, and keep your street tires on stock rims.  The weight savings are definitely worth it.  That 10.5" wide tire will not have a significantly larger contact patch over the 9" due to the diameter of the tires.  Sometimes the taller/narrower tire will have as large or larger contact patches.  I went through this when racing my '69 Mach I trying to find the absolute best combination.  I raced this car for 30 years with different engines and transmissions, and wheel and tire combinations.  When trying to be consistent and quicker, the Weld aluminum drag wheels were a consistent winner without a tube.  I only pinned the tires with 5 screws inner and outer in equal spacing.  That way I could change the tires quickly if needed and they were very lightweight.  I would also consider two lightweight front wheels and tires for the strip.  You will be required to meet safety standards with the stud lengths and wheel nut engagement, as well as driveshaft safety loop, etc., if you go a certain speed or time.  Know the rules before going to the track will be in your favor.  Have fun and be safe.  If you are slower than 13.00 seconds, then the rules are very lax as to equipment needs.  Joe-JDC

JDC

Back to my tire question.  Talked to Mickey Thompson Tech Support. Came up with two options I like. Pro BracketRadials, 28” tall and either 9”” or 10.5 “ wide. I’m leaning towards 9”” for fit and cost reasons plus too much tire isn’t good 
either.  Anyone running 10.5”tires on a T Bird. Do they fit and are they too much traction for my setup?

Blacktie:

If they are rubber they are replacements, to the best of my knowledge all original body spacers are steel. 

Slumlord, let us know what you end up using. 

So far I’m looking at15” wheels 7” wide with 4” backspace. Nicky Thompson tires about 28” tall, 9-9 1/2”wide. Any more racers out there with suggestions? Specifics on tires? Mickey Thompson has several options available. 

That’s probably a good topic for a new thread. Mine were ok, so I didn’t deal with it.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I asked because it's highly likely that the rubber body-to-frame rubber insulators on my 55 Tbird should be replaced. Pretty much everything made of rubber has disintegrated over 68 years. 

No. The front of the car was centered, just the back needed to move a bit. I’ve got a different steering system and there’s a u joint in there. So I just kind of cave mannned it over 3/8” or so. Enough to stop the little bit of shift in a hard corner.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Did you have to disconnect/remove the steering column before lifting & centering the body?

It’s been a long time. I know the wheels were 7”, and the backspace was 4”. The wheels on the car now are that size. I’m pretty sure the tread was 10”, but it could have been 9.5”? They were taller that the stock 27 something inches, maybe not 30”? But I’ve never altered the wheel wells on the bird. Other cars, yes.

I didn’t know it then, but the body was 3/4” off center on the frame. When I put the 235/60 T/A’s on a hard left turn put the fender lip into the sidewall. Re centering the body solved that. Minor item, undo all the bolts, jack the body up, use lots of dunnage and a bottle jack, and push it over. Try not to break the rust in the rocker panels.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ