From my observation It looks like the Teapot might not hold as much fuel as a modern carb.   I never measured how my much it holds but the float bowl appears to be smaller than an Edelbrock.
I've got enough to do so if this is "normal" I am not going to sweat it.   I am just used to having my cars start as soon as I turn the ignition to the start position unless they are sitting for a could of weeks....  This carb seems to need extra cranking after a few days

I don't know how much ethanol is in the gasoline in California but in the 40+ years that I have owned 50's Fords and Mercurys I have always had to prime the carburetors of these cars to start them after they sit for more than a few days, even before ethanol was being added.  I have two cars with "modern" Holley carbs, one with a stock Holley "teapot" 4 bbl. and one with a stock Holley 2 bbl.   The cars with the "modern" Holleys seem to start O.K. even after sitting for a week or so but need to be primed after sitting 1-2 weeks.  The two cars with the original carbs always need to be primed to start after sitting more than a few days.  All of my cars have stock original type AC mechanical dual action fuel pumps, a couple of them installed decades ago and I have never had a problem with fuel pump failure.  I just accept that my cars usually need to be primed after they sit between start ups and they always fire right up on the 1st or second crank.

Ku;tulz:
That's a good idea, left mine on before

I prime my carb, pouring a little fuel onto the secondary butterflies before I start, if the Tbird has been sitting for more than a week.
I even lift the bonnet/hood when I park it back in the workshop after a run, but that doesn't help.
It's not just ethanol, because we don't have it in our fuel.
I was putting it down to the 465cfm Holley with the vent on the bowl.

Paul, in most cases my experience is the same. But I’ve had a couple exceptions. My standby generator plugged up from the ethanol rotting the fuel hose. No doubt about it. The carb was full of rubber particles and a q tip in the hose looked like it was dipped in liquid rubber.

But I’ve also had a modern EFI engine lay down over 5000 rpm (small motor. 7500 redline). Fresh fuel cured it, and my F code clone, down in Tucson was worse. 4 months over the hot summer, it wouldn’t idle. It’s got the bonnet for the blower, choke milled off, kind of got to wet it down and then turn the ignition on. It would start, but wouldn’t idle without turning the screw up. Again, fresh fuel cured it immediately.

So I think the ethanol problem varies a bit with environment, both humidity and temperatures.



miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

All these problems that people are talking about, I don't understand.  I've used 10 % for maybe 30 years .  Here in NJ it is about the only thing you can get.  Never, never, experienced any of the  problems mentioned other than having to crank the engine a little more after it has been sitting a while.  The fuel I put in in October still starts the car ok in April WITH NO ADDITIVES LIKE sta bil or sea foam.  In fact, my son, who had a street rod, used Sta Bill one year and it completely fouled up the carb..  Never had a problem before and after that happened.

I know enough that rubber parts have to be the type  for ethanol or you have problems but that should be way in the past by now. since it has been mentioned tons of times.

Does the car run as efficiently with 10 %.  For all I have heard, no, but is there that much difference. ?  


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Very hard to find non ethanol fuel in NJ.   Last trime I looked there might have been a handful of stations selling it and none were close to me

And there is also the problem of ethanol gasoline experiencing phase separation, during transport, station storage tanks, the vehicle fuel tank and it's occurring using a mechanical fuel pump.

Also, it will eat a cellulose fuel filter leading to carb contamination. Think a scintered bronze filter.

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100% agree with Kultulz, have found the exact same problems when using E10 gasoline.

Interestingly enough, I recently posted this video https://youtu.be/W88wjkI7UJE. (Aviation gasoline in my 1955 Ford Fairlane, 292 Y Block, Summit Carburetor, mechanical fuel pump)

I ran aviation gasoline for a few months in my old Ford just for kicks and gave a report on what I found. That all may be old news for some, but I enjoyed doing it and learned a lot on my own. One of the benefits of running fuel that has no ethanol is that you do not have the issues of fuel boiling/evaporating out of the carburetor bowls. The engine fires right up every time. Plus, I can let the car sit as long as I want to (within reason) - that gasoline's formula has some longevity and does not break down easily. It is certainly not formulated to run in automotive engines but you can do it in a pinch.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Consider it this way ...

The car engine shuts down. Immediate heat soak as there is no air circulation or coolant circulation. The fuel (E-10) begins to boil and is released through the vents as a gas. The floats drop and the pressurized fuel in the fuel line expands and enters the fuel bowls.

Most likely the valves in the pump are not opening/closing correctly due to the effects of the ethanol fuel. It is also most likely fouled (as will be the carb) due to zinc oxide and only who knows what is coming out of the tank.

You cannot use a phenolic carb spacer due to hood clearance (BIRD).

Before start, remove the ACL and look into the carb venturies and see if fuel is puddled on the throttle blades (and most likely the intake manifold plenum floor). Move the throttle linkage and see if any fuel is shot (accel pump). No shot, either the bowls are empty or a bad accel pump.

So you crank the engine hoping for a quick prime. You are abusing the starter with extended cranking and there is also no ignition advance retard feature (to allow easier cranking). That pretty ACL acts as a tent retaining the engine heat around the carb and further exasperating the problem(s).

So, the only true way out is with an electric pump, either primer or transfer (tank to mechanical pump) (ideally with return fuel line for cooler fuel) and a clean fuel system with the proper fuel conditioner. The fuel curve has to be adjusted correctly also (larger jets).

Today's' fuel(s) are formulated for EFI and EVAP, not carburetion.

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