I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?

I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?

Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.

Sounds like the re-builder did you no favors.

Black soot (dry, not wet) on plugs indicates running rich (or wrong heat range - too cold).

The proper pump pressure will be found in the WSM (FUEL SECT. - SPECIFICATIONS).

CURB IDLE is set with the car in gear (be careful here - chock the car).

The VACUUM GAUGE needs to connect directly to the intake manifold.

If I missed anything, yell out.

____________________________

Time got the better of me but I finally managed to get the engine running tonight! 😁 Thanks for all the help!!

The Holley was refreshed / cleaned but the float was not set correctly and two out of the five check balls where missing when I went through the carburettor. I'm no expert but my spark plugs where black so I cleaned them up, added some fresh fuel and it took alight.

I still have not checked for vacuum but I did test the fuel and running at 5 Psi, is that a bit high?

I can not seem to get the RPM to 450 at idle, without it going real lump or feeling like the engine will stall. Is 750 to 800 RPMs to high for idle?

Is the vacuum test done with the line between the carburettor and distributor? What exactly am I looking for with the vacuum test.

Thanks 🙏 
I'm so happy.

"... bought myself an original 55 cashmere coral Lincoln project, early mid life crisis and 3 girls will do that to you.

I purchased the car wanting to learn about them, so i started with the basics as best i could; (bought a repair manual)

- oil changed 
- sparks plugs changed
- leads replaced
- fuel tank and sender rebuilt
- mechanical fuel pump rebuilt (poorly still has a droplet every now and then)
- holley 4000 cleaned and rebuilt with gasket kit.

I did re do the spark plug leads and run them the correct way and re stabbed the distributor, managed to get the car to respond to throttle input".

So the car idled then began to stumble?

You need (IMO) a combination fuel pressure/vacuum gauge to check for vacuum leak(s), etc. The fuel pressure gauge will show if pressure and volume are correct. When checking for vacuum leaks and it shows such, remove and plug any vacuum supply line (one at a time) (such as booster) to see if the needle steady's.

Using your timing light, see if there is timing advance at the balancer/harmonic ring index.

Has the engine been gone through at any period?

As for ingesting small amounts of brake fluid, it should have no ill effect, Remove and block the booster lead until she idles somewhat correctly and then go on to the MC/BOOSTER repair.

Maybe this will help.

____________________________

"One of the coolest things where i got some basic understandings was watching Chrysler master tech videos, does ford or Lincoln have anything like that? They really are cool to learn from".

If you GOOGLE AUTO REPAIR or CLASSIC CARS, you should come across much information.          

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No i do not believe they offer any thing like a community college here where i would be able to learn the basics, technology is free though so i have been reading up a bit on the forums, youtube helps, and i do have a couple friend mechanics that i speak to.

One of the coolest things where i got some basic understandings was watching Chrysler master tech videos, does ford or Lincoln have anything like that? They really are cool to learn from.

"I do own a Linc 1954 with 1955 supplements repair and adjustment manual.

Which Ford manual in particular should i be acquiring, one from the same year? I have purchased a motors manual that dates from 1930s to 1960s American still waiting for it to ship to Australia.

I have never touched a car or been inside an engine bay prior to this car. So any information i can get my hands on will help out tremendously."

You have the correct manual (LINC). The trouble is they are written mainly for a trained tech. The MOTORS MANUAL may simplify things for you.

If you have no automotive experience, do they offer COMMUNITY COLLEGE courses down there that will introduce you to basic knowledge?

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Thank you all for the response.
I have not had a chance yet to trial some of the suggestions. I do own a Linc 1954 with 1955 supplements repair and adjustment manual.
Which Ford manual in particular should i be acquiring, one from the same year? I have purchased a motors manual that dates from 1930s to 1960s American still waiting for it to ship to Australia. I have never touched a car or been inside an engine bay prior to this car. So any information i can get my hands on will help out tremendously.


Is there anything i can spray around the fittings and hoses to check for vacuum leaks? Should it be non flammable?

- The teapot was sent off for a clean inspection and rebuild by a professional.

- The treadle vac was also rebuilt by a specialist, and can confirm it works well, needed a bore and sleeve in the master cylinder and the leather diaphragm that wraps the piston needed to be soaked in linseed oil and brought back to life after sitting for so long. Oh and yes the treadle vac is vacuum assisted. I will try plugging it.

- Would anyone know where i would be able to get a replacement if i ever needed the diaphragm in the future?

I also need help with the power steering gear, it leaks everywhere, looks really complicated. I wouldn't know where to start. Is there a lip seal and bearing kit for something like that. Or is there any straight up bolt on replacement?

Regards,

John

Does it use vacuum for the booster ? Try unplugging the vacuum hose to the brake booster and plug the intake side ? Then try starting it.
It might be leaking vacuum so much it would make it tough to idle much less to start ?


1936 Ford 3W Coupe : 56 T-Bird 312, 47 Packard 3 speed, 40 juice brakes.
1968 Merc Cyclone FB GT 390, Getting a better front clip!
1977 Ford F-250 Supercab RWD Explorer Long box.
1976 Chev Camaro RS LT
Future rebuild : 1949 Ford F-1

Nice looking Lincoln by the way.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Might want to send out that carb to a professional and have it rebuilt. 


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ