finally got my rebuilt 272 Y started yesterday...

rebuilt in 92 and just this year got it back in the car.  Have done all the recommended prep before start up: drill on the oil pump to lube the top, Petronix pick up and coil, fuel to the carb and timing close enough to get it running.

on start up, brought it to approx 2000 rpm; planned on about 20 minutes like this to seat all the internal parts, had good oil pressure right away, and only one small (I hope) water leak from the dr side head-to-block mating, at about the #6 spark plug area...

but after about 5-7 minutes, it became apparent that it was getting too hot; was relying on the temp guage in the dash cluster, but it never moved off "C"; so I cut it off.  I have a true water temp guage that I will install before the next start up.  also noticed the two middle runners on the intake manifold started darkening.  They were like that before I had the engine rebuilt...

So, any suggestions on the best way to safely proceed from here?

thanks, Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Hello; A couple of things about running in of a new engine. I have in the past put a hose into the top of the radiator and opened the drain on the bottom and run cold water during the first 15/20 minutes of operation. This time of year that might not be such a good idea. Why do you think that your engine is getting too hot? What are the SYMPTOMS? Try an INFARED no contact instant read thermometer and get the real engine temp. If you are using a 180 degree thermostat, look for temp below 200 degrees before you get two worried. Also a retarded timing will give a hotter running engine so hook up a timing lite. Pete

Get a fan to put in the front the radiator/grille just to provide extra air circulation.



I wouldn't rely on the stock temp gauge. I went a bought an inexpensive electrical gauge, put the sender unit in the stock location and used that to check engine temp. The infrared heat gun is a good idea.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Could the thermostat be "stuck"??? Just my .02 worth!



-reed

Reed Patridge
Birmingham, Al
1936 Ford Pickup, Flathead powered cruiser
Model A Roadster, 292" Y-Block "project" vehicle

The "middle two runners" are the exhaust cross over. If you didn't block them the will get hot and burn off the paint. They are intended to heat the manifold and this is totally normal.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Besides all the other suggestions thus far made (which are all good) I’ll add:

 

Run a compression check and check the cam lobes to insure that they are all holding up.  I trust there was no ‘white’ assembly lube used during the original build as that’s a different set of problems that could be manifesting themselves.  Vacuum readings are also a good trouble shooting tool but you’ll need to aquaint yourself with the various vacuum reading scenarios that are typically listed in a repair manual so you know what kind of readings to be looking for.  Did you have a small hole in the thermostat to allow air to be bled from the block as coolant is added?  If not, there’s a good chance the block wasn’t full of water when you started the engine.

 

As far as the water leak, if it hasn’t resolved itself yet, then drain all the water, block included, and let it sit overnight without any water.  Then refill with coolant and see if that doesn’t at least fix that problem.  Note:  This draining of the water and letting it sit overnight to fix a block/head seepage issue only works if the engine had only water in it to begin with and no anti-freeze.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

thanks... good suggestions all...

plan to hook up a true water temp guage, drain the water out (yes, all water no antifreeze), refill water, have my timing light at the ready, then try again...

will be watching the temp, oil pressure, attempting to set the timing w/the light and keep it running at 1800-2000 rpm for the usual break in time frame... 15-20 minutes, right?

on the temp, I suppose that anything over 200 degrees is a sign of trouble, right?

and on the two middle runners on the intake, will I just have to live with the "burned" look? or can I do something to keep them from turning funny dark-colored?  I'm not above removing the intake and repainting if I can keep the burned look at bay...

appreciate the input!

Merry Christmas from Houston!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Parts suppliers (i.e. tee-bird prods, carpenter, etc.) sell intake manifold gaskets that have restrictions on those cross-overs to prevent the burning.  Ive got about 14k miles on mine with those and no sign of burning etc.  Just dont do it if you live in a cold climate and this is a daily driver.... will take a looooong time to warm up...

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

success!

finished initial run in before it got too hot; hit 200 before I shut it down.

got the timing set, did some tuning of the carb; have good oil pressure and no oil leaks;

still have a small water leak, will try the "drain it over night" suggestion from Ted...

may have a problem thermostat; may take it out and put in a saucer and heat it up in water on the stove to make sure it works... by the way, where should I make the hole(s) in the thermostat to make sure the engine gets completly full of water, Ted? somewhere along the outer edges(s)??

thanks again to all for the assist; no digital camera in the Smith household so no U tube vids of my project; maybe some stills sometime soon...

Tim ("Y Block Guy")... I swerved into your vids and was much encouraged to get this thing underway so I too could enjoy the sound of a Y... and mine did not disappoint!

Happy New Year from Houston!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

If you try searching "Thermostat" you may find pics on here. Or also post by "Steve Metzger" . He has posted in the pasta picture of the drilled t-stat

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK