Purpose of this build is to have the Y-block sound.

The 37 truck is not going to be very heavy. Maybe 1850 .lbs.

So that being said.

I have a 3 x 2 intake. and a 2 x 4 intake. Yeah it might have to d with looks and the 3 x 2 looks pretty cool. Not to big on the teapots.



Target HP would be 285 hp at the back tire. Not an all out drag racer but it should be capable of low 8's in the 1/8th. But driven to a few event and work. In Socal we can almost drive year around.

I was planning on working over the 61t heads with bigger valves. Port matching them and upgrading the rocker arm ratio to 1.54

I have a machinist at my disposal. All I have to pay for is materials and equipment time. So about half. I still need to check the CC on the head. I have read info on 7.8 and 8.2 comp. I may have to just upgrade the head due to the low compression? I am shooting for a 9.5 to 10.1 compression and maybe fall back to 9.1.

My windsor 289 ran great with 10.1 and bigger valves. AND a few other tricks I did to it. IE better air flow and cooling allows for the high compression.



Right now the block is bored .040 with flat tops. Cross hatches are still visible in the cylinder walls so this was rebuilt recently.

So what bore could I go with ? Stay with the .040?



From what I understand I can use 312 pistons and keep some of the cost down.

Anymore advice to help this build.

Thanks Pete

If you have low cost machine work you could offset grind the crank and make a 312 Stroker. Could go to 338ci, I think, with a kit. Might as well, it's not my money I'm spending.

Changing the Intake manifold heat riser, block changes the "tune" of the yblock sound somewhat also-I just can't tell you which way till you try it.



But the Y firing order is what really makes the good sound.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

one more thing I might add is- the new Barry grant 2's work awesome on the 3-2 setup and you would have no old carb issues to deal with.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

ok, here some more of MHO. You can make all the HP and torque you need with that maoter with heads work and a camsshaft. Have Mummert in El Cahon, CA, Do your headwork and you should have an easy 300 HP with the proper cam and heads. + you could get more if you want to spend. Here's one example of mine.



http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic1046-4-1.aspx

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Yeah

I have spoke with John. just down the street in El Cajon. 

By no means is this my first engine build...its just my first Y-block build.  I have always heard about the whipping the y-block dished out in the 50's. 

I never thought I would be buidling one.  Until I had this dream of building this truck. 

This build is under strict budget restraints.  Why cause she said so...

SO as always I am gonna do all the work myself. 

BTW 55 bird I like your dyno numbers.  Just what I had in mind.

For this build I am shooting to stay within my budget which is under 4k.   So far so good.  I have barely 1300 in the truck.

Sold part here..deal for deal here and there.

Seeing that its for me I dont' charge myself labor.

My last little project was a poor man stroker.  289 block .030 pistons, 351w heads and my porting...it laid down 396 Hp 398 tq.

Turned 7200 rpm and propelled a little 65 mustang to 150 mph on the frotn stretch of Willow Springs.  I ran low 8's in the 1/8th.  with the tko-500 I could only shift 1 to 2nd.  So my 8 sec runs were just 1st and 2nd gear. 

I did all kinds of Taboo on that engine.  Big intake, 3 inch exhaust..a straight duration cam...big carb.  aluminum flywheel for the street...high compression on pump gas.ETC.  

Get some ECZ-G heads or 113s . have them worked up . Buy the mummert rebuild kit . This gives you all you need to build the engine. One stop shopping. about $2500.00. Worth every cent. Intake and carbs are whatever makes your heartbeat. 57 and up Distributor with electronic conversion. Put it all together and ZOOM! my2C    

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Pete: You are probably right to pass on the Teapots, unless you are a gifted carb tuner, or no someone that is. On the other hand, I suspect that pulling over 325 h.p. at the flywheel with Tri Power, is a tall order. And if the manifold is by chance an Offenhauser, forget it! Generally speaking, the best power on Y-Blks, has usually come with a single 4 Bbl setup.

Paul

Well I have both of the good intakes.  Edelbrock 257 and 573.

If all else fails it will be atleast 1 hp per cubic inch. I guess we will see how good my porting is eh!

I have posted the truck build progress on the HAMB and I will post the build of the Y-block here.

9½:1 CR is the safe limit for pump gas (premium).  Anything more than that and especially with a camshaft that is on the short side of the duration numbers pushes your luck in keeping detonation at bay without backing up the ignition timing significantly which in turn hampers overall engine performance.  But to get 9½:1 on a Y will require popup pistons on the standard stroke combinations.  On pump gas, a horsepower to the cubic inch at the flywheel is quite doable with the normal upgrades in head work, camshaft, valve train, and induction.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted

Do you a list of combustion chamber volumes? 

I haven't boutht he Y-block book yet.