student is putting his crank pulley on his 292 and having some difficulty, I told him to tap it on till he could engage the threads and then suck it down with an impact - he cant get it on far enough to get the bolt in? The key appears to be lined up?? I know this is a kinda barbaric way to do it but its the only way I've ever done it - what other ways exist?? thanks-

Make sure there are no burs on the crank snout preventing the installation.

A tool is available from Eastwood that will do it. - Or maybe it isn't anymore. I just looked. - Without the tool, tapping will work. Alternate sides to prevent it from getting cocked. If the bolt is used, make sure there is good thread engagement. You don't want a stripped crank. Don't let them forget the slinger!



Here you go. It looks like the same thing Eastwood offered. It just costs twice as much.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-4920&autoview=sku


Lawrenceville, GA

Whailing away with the hammer could be very bad for thrust bearings. If not inclined to spend 30 bucks for installation tool, at least put some tape between cover and pulley and watch it slack when tightening (to make sure threads are not being stripped).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan:

As Charlie says,  make sure there are no burrs or rust.  I have heated the hub with a propane torch to help slide it on.  Don't heat it enough to burn the seal though.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

On  mine I bought a longer bolt(they are fine thread)and used it with the large washer to pull the damper into place and then used the proper bolt when finished.Worked for me and personally I don't like the idea of hammering it on.

  

I do the same thing, using a longer bolt initially.  On mine it has to be removed after the first go, and shims installed, then rethreaded again to get the damper on far enough to use the correct bolt.  An oil pump inlet jamb nut comes in handy along with assorted washers.  It helps to keep all the hardware together so it is ready to go for the next install.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

If you have to "tap" it on. I suggest placing a 2x4 between the spacer and the hammer. Also, just in case you have a rubber seal on the damper (between the pulley and the actual hub) be careful. The rubber seal is known to give way. I haven't seen a photo of your crank pulley yet - forgive me if it is solid steel.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com