EJ:

Duhh, I think I finally picture in my mind what you are referring to.  That shaft you are talking about has a very deep flat machined into it, and the half shaft on the shift arm seats in that deep flat so that it can move the shift shaft back and forth.  Make sure that flat is facing the hole that the shift lever shaft goes into.  Also, the shift lever shaft must be out when the tail housing is installed.  That freeze plug is at your local parts house, it is a standard size (I'm thinking 1 1/2") and called a disc type expansion plug.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Well, I used grease so far. That, so far, hasn't been my problem. My problem is that shift rail that goes into that spring and then on into a hole in the tail shaft. I've never been able to post a picture on here but I've got pics on the HAMB. It's just kickin' my butt. I think that hole is slotted and I just must not have the slot lined up. That slide rail should freely move back and forth but it doesn't. I guess I'm going to have to take the shaft out and see what the deal is with that hole. I hate the thought of doing that. I don't know if I can find that freeze plug in the top of the tranny that you have to take out to get to the clip that holds the shaft in .. I'm gonna take a break today, I'll mess with it next week. Ya know, sometimes if ya just take a break the next time you try it it falls into place ..

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

I needed a calculator to do the math, but 42 years ago when I had an overdrive apart, the local wrench told me to put a wide rubber band around the needle bearings to hold them in. He said it was easier than grease, and that it would break the minute it turned over. Tranny worked great for several thousand miles before I sold the car. Probably more nostalgic than useful, but in those days grease cost money, and rubber bands came on the newspaper.


miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

It's the yolk on the drive shaft. One T-89 has a spicer U-joint on it. That is one that the unit is bolted to the transmission tail shaft and then the slip joint in on the drive shaft instead of slipping in the transmission it's self. I need to take the part that holds the U-joint and have it welded to the slip yolk because one of the ears are broken off. In other words I have a broke ear. I need to cut the end off of a good one and have it welded on the bad one. Kind of hard to explain with no pictures.

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

EJ: I'm not familiar with the pieces you say will need welding, but I suspect those parts may be carbon or alloy steels. If so, it should be done by a competent welder, using a suitable alloy electrode. Not done with a 110 volt mild steel wire feed or similar unsuitable setup..

Paul

Well I don't know if any of you have been inside one of these gearboxes before, I suspect somebody on here has, but when I tore T-89 #1 apart the planetary gears were all stripped. Everything else looked OK. Sun gears looked fine. Only thing this causes is that tranny is a parts tranny now, won't be fit for re-sale. I put it all back together on T-89 #2 today and something's not right. Will have to tear into it again tomorrow. Where the od lever his hooked to the cable, that unit won't move. Have done something wrong. Everything else worked fine, so far...

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

Jerome, Thanks a ton. This is the kind of stuff I was lookin' for. Again, the forum comes through. I had one in a '57 back in the 60's. I put a T-10 in it and I guess I just threw that T-85 away ... Not the only dumb thing I did over the years .......... but who knew? Thanks again ..

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

EJ,
I have one of these in my 56 Fairlane. Here are some helpful links I've collected on the T-85/89's. Enjoy.

The first is an index link.
http://speedprint.com/deves50/overdriveindex.php

Click on the "overdrive rebuild document" for a direct answer to your question about how not to spill those needle bearings.

Here is a link to a much sharper image of the same OD wiring diagram given in the "overdrive wiring document" in the above link.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/over/drive.htm

In the following link there is an article posted from Hemmings Motor news on the T85/89 and some of the cars and trucks that it saw duty in.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/53630-which-3spd-ods-w-223-a-3.html

Intrestingly, the Hemmings article missed some of biggest muscle applications of the T85/89's. For example, check out the specs at the bottom of this link for an idea of the Hp they could handle.
http://mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=CH1008-72981

Jerome

Yeah, mine's an overdrive. Thanks for the info on those little bearing going everywhere. I'll be careful taking it apart. I have to change tailshafts because of the spicer u-joint. I'll just be real careful taking it apart. I'm going to have to get the u-joint shaft of one transmission welded to the slip yolk of the other one. The ears are broke on the slip yolk I need. It's going to be an ordeal but do able . Thanks again for the info ..

Doing Fords for 45 years. '56 Customline Victoria

E.J. in Havana FL

They made T89 with and without overdrive. If it's an OD, there are lots of small parts to deal with. Warner made lots of variations of everything, and I would be hesitant to try the swap. The T89 is a very good transmission and probably overkill for a y Block. One solution would be to use a drive shaft with a slip joint in it. Then you wouldn't have to take anything apart. Make sure you measure everything including pilot shaft diameter and length. If it came out of A pickup it could be different than what you have now.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas