I'm having the Y-Block completely rebuilt. Someone told me that since it's going o be rebuilt, and teh newer non-detergent oils, I shouldn't have to run a top oiler kit.... Would this be accurate. This would be great not having that ugly thing runnin on top...Sugestions???

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Make sure that the oil passages are clear, make sure to install the rocker shafts in the propper orientation, and yes you will be able to get rid of the top oiler.


Lawrenceville, GA

Apache,

         if everything is done right theres no reason to have the lines running up to the top. All of the motors that I've had, never had any with that set up and all were great.  Biggest thing I would say is getting the cam bearings in correctly, properly aligned,  and have a rebuilt set of rocker assemblys that don't have any old gunk in them to get into the "new" motor. The other thing I have done and I think others will comment on this is to fill or put oil in the rocker shafts before firing the motor.

                                                   Michael

Michael

Sandy Valley, NV

You will not need the top oiler system any more. (In reality, it was a after-market "fix" for plugged oil passages due to people using non-detergent oil and not changing it very often.....hence the sludge plugging the oil passages!!)



Also, don't use non-detergent oil in that engine (or any engine for that matter)

API Service classifications





You have 2 choices for the camshaft. cross-drilled and grooved. I think most people would suggest that you have the machine shop install the grooved camshaft.



It might be a good idea to have the people doing the engine have a look at Mummerts " Assembly Errors" article.



Some people at machine shops are not old enough to know much about the Y-blocks and may not know this info....



Cheers,





Rick












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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

Let's start by a given; engine-build lube is covering everything liberally.  ALWAYS run your oil pump before you start the engine for the first time.  The oil pump driveshaft is a convenient 1/4" hex.  A !/2" drill motor chuck will conveniently accept a 1/4" socket extension. 

So, put a 1/4" socket on a long 1/4"-drive extension, and run it with a 1/2" drill motor.  I would NOT use a battery-operated drill motor.  The oil pump produces 40# pressure, which tends to take your drill motor for a ride.

While building up pressure, check your pressure gauge.  (Really, you don't have to since you will definately FEEL the pressure building.)  While still using the drill, run the engine with no spark plugs for about a half minute by energizing the starter.

If your rocker covers are off, you will see oil come out of the rocker arms.  Install plugs and your distributor, and run the engine at or above 1,500 rpm.  Remember, the cam is going half that speed, so the idea is NOT to run a new cam installation too slow.  In order to seat piston rings, you need to 'load' them while driving.  Hope this helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I did the same thing with mine. (turned the oil pump with a 1/4 drive speed wrench) I got 50+ PSI turning it by hand!



I didn't know I had a cross-drilled cam and "Murphy" was in there of course..... so I didn't get any oil at the rockers...



After I got over the panic......and turned the crank a little, I got an abundance of oil on each side!



I remember my old 57 Fairlane would produce 80 psi when it was cold....



regards,





Rick


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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox

I would add one thing to Dave's post on pre-oiling.  Be sure to run the drill in reverse, or turn the speed handle to the left, the pump runs counter-clockwise.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

One more thing about pre oiling with a drill, the starter or a speed wrench,  you may need to prime the pump with a squirt of oil or a dab of grease between the rotors.  Otherwise you might not develop enough suction to lift the oil out of the pan to the pump especially if you are turning it by hand. Once oil gets to the pump you will NEVER have to do this again (or at least not until you solvent wash the pump and put it together dry). 

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.