Where can we get true specifications about Y-Block cams? I have a CABX 28 camshaft from '62 - '64 truck block and I have two ways to go. To keep it stock because it is like new or to take it to the local machine shop to be regrind for more lift. All information is welcome about any cam. 

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Hollow,

          I doubt if the local machine shop will be able to regrind your cam. Mummert can supply you with something, and I believe he has the specs for stock cams. It'll depend on what and how you intend to use the truck.

                                                             Frank

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Well... they made one last year from '56 camshaft by the Mummerts Y-265S specs and it works fine by the owner of one '59 Edsel here in Finland. GT-motor, The machine shop, has done regrinds for years for Finnish rally and race drivers so I know that they can do. And the price, you can't belive, 100 euros ( 130 dollars) and that included grinding of the groove to the center bearing surface And phosphate coating for the lobes .

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

And Frank, It'll be in our Hollow Machine rod and it's new Twin Turbo setup. So, I quess it won't need more lift. Just raising the boost. I've heard that Turbo engines doesn't need a "big" camshaft. True?

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Quoted from turbomustangs forum...



http://www.turbomustangs.com/tmfaq.php



"Which cam should I run?



The stock cam will support enough hp to crack the stock block in half and provide superb driveability. There is really no reason to change cams unless you want to make big time power."



I think new(twenty years old?)Mustang's cam is not too far from stock Y-block cam.









Hyvinkää, FI

Ok. I was at my garage a moment ago and took some measurements out of that CABX-28 camshaft. These are taken from the lobes, so we are talking about cam lift, not valve lift. Stock cam lobe is about 1.6 inch high when the basic circle is about 1.3 inch wide. At the bottom of the lobe there is extra material for about .161 inch that can be grind away to get more lift. Stock lobe in that camshaft has about .236 inch cam lift. When we calculate these two together we end up to .397 cam lift . How much is then the valve lift with 1.43 rocker arm ratio? Or with 1.54 ratio? Just wondering....

BTW The cost for that grind in Finland was 150 euros. I had to check that from the owner of that Edsel. Sorry about false information. Also he stated that that camshaft has about .433 inches of lift measured from the valve. 

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

And the answer is... .568 inch with 1.43 ratio and .611 inch with 1.54 ratio. Quite awesome .

Lunati has great sites...

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Understanding%20Camshafts.pdf

 Seppo from Järvenpää, Finland
www.hollowheads.net (just click the hole in the head to proceed)

Hollow.

         That's some machine shop. I've never seen one in the US with a cam grinder.

The theory on Turbo cams is to not allow to much overlap, nowadays they spec it with the "lobe centers". Keeps the boost from allowing the mixture to blow right out the exhaust valve. That's an awful lot of lift for a Y. Best run real good springs and check the piston to vale clearance, could get close.

                                                         Frank   

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

H. H.: The Cab -X is a very mild 246 degree (advertised) replacement for the original cams. I have a bit of trouble believing your grinder can achieve what you're telling us. By the way according to J. Mummert, you will have to shorten the valve guides to achieve that lift. I think you should go with Jim's suggestion and contact Mummert for professional advice. As I understand it, to achieve that lift from your cam, will require reducing the base circle of it & that may not be a good idea... ??

  

Paul

H.H.: Correction- Sorry, I said Jim, I should have said "Frank" 

Paul