I picked up a set of Silv-O-Light pistons for my 292. These are new in the box and have been sitting in this guys garage for long time. Since the price was right at $100 it looks like a good deal. They do seem heavy and I have a postage scale so I slid the pin out of one and weighed it. The piston without the pin weighs 1lb 5.2 oz. I weighed 3 of them and they all weigh the same. The pins all weigh 4.9 oz. Is this a heavy piston for the 292 or about right? I looked up the Compression Distance spec. and it says 1.760  I am trying to get 9to1 compression and using a stock never touched G heads.

What would be the best way to go for rings cast or moly? I am building a slightly modified street motor for the soomn to be Hot Rod Edsel

Thanks for all input

Rick

Had my numbers backwards. The piston weighs 1lb. 4.9oz  and the pin weighs 5.2oz

Getting old I quess

I'm in the same boat as you; just bought Sealed Power pistons (+.060), and a Hastings moly ring set.

There's more to this than meets the eye.  I will put the wrist pins and keepers in the old set, weigh them, and find the DIFFERENCE in weight from the new set.  To keep crankshaft counterweights consistant, I need the new pistons to weigh the same as the old set.  Because my old rings were really far gone, bare pistons with pins and keepers will be used, leaving out all the rings.

Of course, you want your new pistons to weigh the same, so do that first (they should be real close out of the box).  But the DIFFERENCE can be taken off that square on top of your connecting rods.  Here's the balancing act:  Weigh the rod ends, make them the same, then continue grinding off the small end tops off, to compensate for the additional new bigger piston weight.  Removing steel gives much faster results than removing aluminum alloy.  When done, re-check your weights.  Your crankshaft will thank you.

One reason new engines last so much longer is because they come from the factory with moly top-rings and cast iron second-rings.  I'm going to start a fight here, but another reason they last longer is because they run hotter.  Cold engines wear much faster than hot.  Iron heads can't dissipate heat much over 180*, but aluminum heads have no problem with 195* or more (notice we're approaching the boiling point).  New engines also use 16-lb radiator caps, which raise the boiling point to over 250*F (just like a pressure cooker).  The formula is, for every pound of pressure, the boiling point raises about 3*.  Note: Distilled water boils at 212*F at sea level.  Glycol & water slightly helps the boiling point but really lowers the freezing point.  Some antique cars use NO radiator pressure.  When they climb the Rocky Mountains at 12,000 ft, they are screwed.  Up there, an egg takes over 1/2 hour to hard-boil because atmospheric pressure is so low.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

I think both of you would benefit from a professional balance job. It is money well spent on a new engine. The crank is not perfectly matched to the rods and pistons even from the factory. As for the rings, if you are just doing a re-ring and deglazing the cylinders with a ball hone cast rings will seat faster and better but a freshly bored cylinder with a proper honing and crosshatch will work better with the moly rings.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Guys, you can find typical piston weights on John Mummert's web site. Re-weight the pistons but use the grams scale.

Best regards,



Paul Menten

Meridian, Idaho