Another engine temp question. I've got a 272, pertronix with a flamethrower coil, plugs at .045, holley 465 on a 57 intake, dual exhaust, RV cam, .030 over, large valves in heads and Fordomatic tranny. I've been running around 190 all the time, thats with the heater valve open on the intake, if I close that off its over 200. I fabricated a test shroud and it didn't make any difference so apparently I'm moving maximum air thru the radiator, the little bit of extra air thru the heater core keeps it around 190. I put in a NAPA #6 stat but now I'm out of tricks and with hotter weather approaching I'm getting a little concerned. Is there a different radiator I can run, wagon, truck......whatever that has more surface area or core depth that will help? My wifes feet are getting extremely hot with the heater on sooooooo, gotta come up with something. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Gary, just a thought and I am sure that you have, but I will ask anyway. What is the condition of your rad? Have you had it cleaned (not just flushed) I mean take the tanks off and rodded out? Deposits will close up the flues to the point that very little water can circulate. I have a B600 rad in my pickup, but I don't think it would fit a car. Second are you sure that the gauge is accurate, if using the stock gauge, you might try a cheap after market gauge just too make sure or use an infared gun to check temp at different locations on the engine. Just some thoughts before I've had my coffee, maybe someone else who has had the same problem has more ideas.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Gary.  I agree with Glenn in that the temperature gauge needs to be verified before delving too deeply into this.  If the radiator hasn’t puked any coolant up to this point, I’d not be overly concerned myself.  If you are losing coolant, then double check the radiator cap first as you could be dealing with multiple problems.  I use 190° thermostats in a majority of my drivers simply due to the increase in fuel economy afforded by running the engines warmer so I don’t think much about the temperatures being in the 190°-200°F range.

The adage that comes to mind on heating problems is "If it's not puking water, it's not running hot".  Oversimplied but typically holds true.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Do you have a aftermarket gauge or still using the original?,when my 55 still had the original motor the original gauge would be almost all the way to H and it never overheated so I think the gauges are not too accurate.

Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

Thanks for the info, I guess where I'm trying to go is that I don't want the heater on all the time. Last week it was in the low 80's and with the valve at the block shut off it went over 200, closer to 210 and with warmer weather on it's way it'll only get higher. I've got the NAPA #6 stat which has 170 stamped on it so it never closes to allow the water time to cool off. The gauge is reading pretty close to what I'm getting at the back of the block where the sending unit is, so thats doesn't seem to be an issue. I can live with the 200, it's just the heater on all the time that's frustrating. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

As mentioned previously, the radiator is a good place to start.



200 or 210 degrees is really not bad. My Firebird's fan doesn't come on until about 220 degrees. That is stock.


Lawrenceville, GA