Ordered the arp bolts from mummert 2 1/2 years ago, along with some valves & seals through mummert.  I had to slap the heads back on with a valve lap only before baby #1 came...

Now, we are in the eleventh hour before baby #2, & I am finally getting the y block project where it was intended to be back then.  I just got the heads back from the machine shop & when he gave me back the valves & heads, he also included a small bag of washers that was with the valves I gave him...

So, it looks like I put ARP bolts on with out the washers & have been running on them like this for 2 1/2 years.

Should I use the washers when I reassemble with the refurbished 'g' heads?

I had 1/2" ARP head bolts WITHOUT washers, on aluminum Edelbrock heads for over ten years.  When I  tried taking them off my SBF, I broke two sockets.  One was a Craftsman 9/16" 6-pt 1/2" drive (it split), the other was a 6-pt Snap-on impact 9/16" deep-well (it rounded).  I used my torque wrench because that was the longest lever I had, and it was clacking at over 200 ft/lbs.  Yes, I was removing the bolts, and yes, I'm a big guy.  It was unbelieveable and it never happened to me before.

I was at my wits end and almost used heat.  If I had, the bolts would be instantly destroyed with the possibility of ruining perfectly good Performer RPM heads.  I finally got them all out and called Ed (QC at ARP).  After carefully inspecting for 'wrench squareness', he sent me a new set for free.  Ed said, none of the bolts were out of spec.

I don't know if head bolts 'cold weld' to cast iron, but without a washer they sure do to aluminum.  From then on, I always use hardened washers under all my head bolts.  You can tell if they are hard; they sing when you drop them on cement.  (You can also do a spark test.)

Be sure you chase the threads, clean out the holes, and use a good moly lube when you torque your head bolts.

Hope my experience helps.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

Yes.  The washers can help to prevent the bolts from bottoming out in the bottom of the head bolt holes but if the engine has been running okay, then I’d not be overly concerned about it up to this point seeing as how you’re using iron heads.  But be sure to reinstall the washers back on the bolts the next time the heads are off.  The inside chamfer that’s on one side of the washers must go against the head bolt shoulder so that the bolts properly torque in place.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted,



While Y-Blocks came from the factory without lock washers (or any washers?) on many iron components, I had assumed (disregarding concours/resto requirements) that both should likely be employed for a proper engine assembly?

Timing pointer/brackets would not need a flat washer, and it seems obvious that soft aluminum repro parts should not be attached with a bare bolt, but this posting makes me wonder if steel-against-aluminum should always have some kind of anti-seize/lube protection?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

The ARP head bolts come with hardened flat washers primarily for a better torque distribution and to eliminate the possibility of the fillet under the bolt head not fitting properly in the bolt hole itself.  Where aluminum heads are concerned, always use the hardened washers on the head bolts.  As mentioned earlier, the head bolt washers are one sided as far as installation goes.  Putting them on the bolts upside down creates some new problems.

 

As far as the use of flat washers on aluminum parts in general, I use them to minimize any galling of the aluminum that takes place when tightening the bolts or hardware.  Where lockwashers are required on aluminum parts, then I use a flat washer first to protect the aluminum.  This just prevents any galling that can take place otherwise.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted's suggestions are all very good.  When I went through the 'frozen bolt' ordeal, I learned an awful lot about proper torque proceedures, from ARP.  I've been twisting bolts in threaded holes for an awful long time, and naturally thought I was doing it right.  I learned, everyone has his personal technique, so I listened to the pros.

 

ARP supplies hardened washers to attain low friction and consistant true torque readings.  ARP wants a smooth, hard, flat surface, lubed with moly, which evenly stretches each bolt over the broadest area under the head.  They say 're-torque' (the proper way) must be done by backing-off the bolt, and then tightening in an even motion without stopping, until the proper torque is met.  Simply tightening from 'where it's at', gives false readings due to overcoming cold-weld inertia.  They also aver, using extensions in any length has NO affect on the true torque reading.  (I fought with that one until I realized both ends must have an opposite but equal reaction.)

 

ARP's web site offers proper proceedures, but actually talking with them offers a more in-depth insight backed by sound reasoning.  ARP bolts are expensive because they roll the threads AFTER stress-relief and heat treat.  That process dramatically shortens die life, but offers a much stronger bolt because the steel's grain is uniform around the thread contours.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected