Mummert's reconditioned stock flywheel arrived today and I'm looking forward to replacing my old one. It would've been nice to go with one of his aftermarket flywheels but I don't have the money for that now. Anyways, since I've never swapped flywheels on an engine before, I don't know if there's a certain way I need to install it. Meaning, is there a correct way to position it to ensure there won't be any balance problems? Or can I just bolt it on and it'll be fine?



I don't know much about engine/drivetrain balancing so I just want to make sure...



Thanks guys! --Matt

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Billerica, MA

One of the holes in the crank flange is offset so that the flywheel will only go on one way. It will be beneficial to go ahead and mark the flywheel and crank just to simplify future installations while your on your back, under the vehicle. If you can afford it, have it balanced with the pressure plate mounted and be sure to mark the relation of the pressure plate to the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. I would at least have the balance checked as it may not be perfect but it may not be out of balance enough to be a big concern. However, I don't know if that will cost much less than it will to go ahead and have it balanced.


Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for replying Charlie, I always look forward to reading what you have to say. Another question I have is do I need to replace the whole clutch again when I install the new flywheel? I'm wondering if its recommended that I hold off replacing the flywheel until I can put it in with a new clutch... I don't have the money for a new clutch right now, but the chatter is very annoying and probably not good for the truck. What do you suggest? Try replacing just the flywheel now and see if it fixes the chatter or hold off altogether?



--Matt

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Billerica, MA

I think you can use the same clutch. I saw how bad your flywheel was on slick60s. I think that is most, if not all of your problem.



Another thing that will make the clutch chatter is bad cab mounts, particularly the driver side. If the sheet metal supports are rotted, the cab will move. Since the linkage is made up of rods and bell cranks, if one point moves (the clutch pedal pivot point), everything else will move and act on the clutch fork - either engaging or releasing the clutch slightly and causing chatter. Guess how I discovered that one.


Lawrenceville, GA

The only thing that rules out the cab mounts for me is the fact that the chatter doesn't start up until the clutch components themselves heat up. The clutch is silky smooth when cold. I think I mentioned this in the other thread, but I appreciate the suggestion. PLUS, the cab mounts are in good shape anyways...



By the way, Mummert's reconditioned flywheel looks great. Based on what I've seen and read about him, I trust his work is very high quality. After all, he is the y-block guy! I doubt he would recondition a known bad flywheel and let it out the door. I guess what I'm saying is that I am confident I won't have any problems specific to the new flywheel upon replacement.











Thanks! --Matt

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Billerica, MA

The springs in the clutch disk hub being loose will cause the clutch disk to chatter upon take off.  Although I’ve seen these springs tightened up by driving a punch or wedge between the coils, it typically doesn’t last long as a repair.  Also look for a worn pilot bushing in the back of the crankshaft.  Wear on the front of the transmission input shaft or in the splines will also contribute to a chattering clutch.  Regardless of what the reason for the clutch chatter, it typically seems to be more pronounced when the disk has been heated up.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Oil on the clutch disc will also cause chatter. Make sure there is no oil leaking from the front of the trans. If the bellhouisng is oily inside try to figure out where it is coming from.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico