Water pump bearing has recently developed a rattle (when hot) that becomes a low-pitch whine around 1200 RPMs. Never nursed one along to failure before (always changed the pump at first sign of bearing noise), but since this motor is due for swap (soon, I hope), I'm just wondering what to expect (I'm under the impression that bad bearings can still run OK for quite a long time)? Aside from leaking, what kind of catastrophe might total failure/seizure entail? Worth the risk?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan:

Go ahead and replace it like Thunderboy says.  Worst case, it can come apart and introduce the fan to the radiator.  The fan will win that battle, I guarantee it.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I have one of Frank's alum. pumps that will go on the new motor. Really don't want to clean sealant & gasket off it to reinstall (easily damaged), but I suppose testing it first on the old motor might be better (should it prove defective, somehow) than it failing on the new one. I usually use that gooey "Form-a-Gasket" on coolant parts, but maybe a silicon sealer will be best in this case? Something that will strip off without mess/damage (which color best for coolant?). Or, I could just get another iron pump, and then have it on hand for a spare down the road.

Since I put so many miles my car, this makes me wonder what to do when the alum. pump eventually goes bad, since Frank stopped producing them? Never thought before about rebuilding something so inexpensive & easily purchased as a water pump.



Anyway, new radiator & fan going in with fresh motor, and while I DO want to avoid inconvenience/mess, was hoping experience of others would provide reliable warning signals of impending failure, since winter IS near (continuous/louder bearing noise?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan,

      Don't worry I have parts to rebuild it as long as you don't hurt the casting. You can have the iron one rebuilt also. Probably NAPA.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I have a Farm Use Only S-10 that has had a rattling water pump for at least 5 years, but then I dont care anything about the truck.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

Frank,



Can alum. pump be rebuilt by anyone using standard parts? If not, I should likely get rebuild kit now, so will be sure to have down the road?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan,

         Everything except the impeller is std, over the counter stuff. I have plenty of impellers left. I'll make mre if I need to.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Frank,



Got a CASCO high-flow pump since would likely be best backup for the higher CR motor, and will install now since no way to predict how long orig. engine must soldier on.

Also, I wanted to have separate total assembly to swap in, so will save all alum. parts for that.

Question: The CASCO has stainless impeller, and wonder if it will fit alum. housing if yours should need replacement down the road?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan,

        Most likely it will work.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Installed CASCO's hi-flow pump, but noticed no change in running temp.

I think I erred by not removing the T-Bird spacer, and reassembling them together so I could take advantage of slop in bolt holes. Since no obvious way to check impeller clearances without removing timing cover, all I did was measure the blade/cavity depth, and spin the pump to listen/feel for interference before bolting it down. I forgot how much things expand when hot, and how the riveted-on extra long impeller blades might flex/shift/loosen when subjected to water pressure. With engine thoroughly warmed, there were too many suspicious noises. Since gasket sealer was still tacky, I loosed everything up and beat them around with woodblock & hammer. I am also really not familiar with the pump bearing/seal construction, so also readjusted fan belt more slack than manual spec. to rule out any twisting of the impeller. No noise now at hot low RPMs, but still some rattles at high revs in neutral, that could possibly be bearing noised from tired lower end. Won't worry though, since new motor coming soon.



In a nutshell, experimenting with modified aftermarket parts likely NOT conducive to peace-of-mind.

If I HAD an overheating problem and was grasping for straws, that would be different.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA