O.k.  I've seen enough posts about "spin-on" filter adapters for me to assume these cars have some other type of oil filter that does not spin on.

So what does it do?  I assume the crusted oil-filter-ish-sized protrustion from the lower drivers-side of the block is the filter...where do I get a replacement?  How do I get it off?

Since I don't have a manual (yet) for the car...anyone tell me what oil to use in the mean time? Thanks!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

I haven't bought one in a long time but I think you can get the spin on adaptor at NAPA for $20 or so.  then just put a big pan under your old filter and undo the bolt that holds the canister on.  there will more than likely be a bushing holding the "anti-drain-back" plate on, the new spin-on adaptor should screw right into this unless you have the bigger one then you need to take the bushing out of the block and screw the adaptor directly into the block, make sure the holes in the backing plate are up so you don't lose your prime when the engine sits.

Also make sure you get the old gasket all the way off, this is a good place for a leak. 

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Thanks Tim!

I found this great article from engine builder magazine's website that was useful for me to read, I'm sure everyone on here has found this already, but just in case:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2624/working_it_all_out_discovering_yblock_ford_tricks.aspx

and another with pics!!

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/0806cct_royal_purple_motor_oil/index.html

(don't you love the internet! Thanks Al Gore!!!)

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

I have an extra adapter for the spin on filter I will give you. Just pay shipping. I need your address to send it .  Shipping will be priority mail $4.65. Earl Dagenhart

55Birdman  Hickory NC

As far as oil is concerned, I like either 20/50 or 15/40 (diesel oil). 10/40 will also work. Any name brand oil s/b ok.



On my 54, I have the spin on adapter, but on my 56 Bird I still have the cannister. So you could go with either - the spin on is easier to get on/off

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I am gonna comment on the oil subject.  I have read enough articles to know that the newer oils are not up to par for our old motors except the diesel and racing rated oils. the newer oils are low on zinc/phosphorous which  is a super slippery additive, the newer oils except the deisel or racing oils don't have a high enough level of additive to protect the flat tappet cams. the newer non-deisel or racing oils have a zinc/phosphorous content of around 550ppm. The deisle or racing oils have the a zinc/phosphorous content of 1000 ppm or more. I only run rotella 15/40 in my engine but now have now, from my understanding, found that rotella makes a 10/30 deisel oil too. just food for knowledge. The numbers i stated are from what i remember and may be a lil off but give you a good idea about the differences. As far as syntetics, haven't heard or read if they are high enough in zinc/phosphorous content to be good or harmful to our beloved old motors.

I have looked at pictures of the rockers on his engine. He has a lot of sludge in his engine. I would have fears a high detergent oil such as a Diesel oil would dissolve more of this sludge than his filtration system can handle. I don't particularly care for Diesel oil in a gasoline engine because they are designed to hold Diesel soot in suspension. However this subject has already been beat to death. In his case, I would recommend a non detergent oil with ZDDP added. The engine made it this far with low or non detergent. Why shouldn't it be run a few more miles with it? Once he gets the body and the other mechanicals up to where he he feels comfortable to drive it, he will probably want to do a valve and ring job anyway and at that time he can clean the sludge. However if it runs pretty good he may want to just to run it just like it is. The sludge doesn't hurt anything as long as it stays where it is at. A low or moderate detergent oil with ZDDP will lubricate the engine just as well as it was lubricated 50 years ago.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

I do not think your valve train looks too bad. I have taken running engines down that were lots more cruded-up to the point that you could not see the valve springs.

Your engine is just average for a late 50 early 60s.

As to the spin on filter, you will find the good info in an article, Google Gills Garage . I took a socket of the right size and ground it down to eliminate the inside champher so as not to strip the very shallow bolt holding the adapator plate to the engine block. Have fun and USE ZINK in your oil. Pete

Thanks Pete! I'm always assuming the worst, and when I saw those rockers my heart sank, but with your comment the light at the end of the tunnel just got a little brighter!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

Nate, adapter is in the mail.

55Birdman  Hickory NC