Fellas- I wanted to do a dry run of getting the starter bolted up this evening- two things immediately jumped out at me; 1) it looks like the starter seal that isn't available locally (not even a # listed) seals up a hole (at the bottom) big enough to throw a cat through. Are these only available at the parts houses? Would someone know of a workaround? 2) The top starter bolt- what a barrel of monkeys this thing is- Has anyone tried replacing it w/ a stud? Is there a trick to getting it in place? Or...? -Thanks- /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

Here in Oz most cars do not have the seal between the starter motor and the bell housing - long gone. It will all work without it though if you can find one, they were considered necessary from new.

The top starter bolt requires the use of a long extension socket bar. I always use 3/8" long enough to have the ratchet wrench in front of the engine mount. The longer the extension the better. 1/2" extensions are just a bit bulkier to handle. To keep the bolt head in the socket, fold some paper/rag over the bolt head and squeeze it into the socket head to hold the bolt whilst getting it started in the thread. A stud may interfere with fitting the starter with the engine mount in place.

Here in Oz, it is almost impossible to get the starter out, especially if the vehicle is a manual shift with mechanical clutch. I have replaced a starter bendix without removing the starter, by removing the cover over the bendix on the back of the bell housing and from in side the inspection plate.

With all the linkages and brackets it is necessary to remove the right hand engine mount and clutch support on right hand drive cars.

Hope this helps.

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Duck if you really need the seal i might be able to locate you one,also if you put a stud in there it will still be hard to get a nut started   Carl

Hi  New seals are available from Casco http://www.classictbird.com/ . Check  their online catalogue , page 22 , item 6436, selling for 12.95 .Tell Betsy that Barry from Manitoba sent you!!!

The seals are available. CASCO, the TBird parts house, lists the seal, part # 6436. I would imagine any supplier, like Carpenter, has the part.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Dennis Carpenter has them.Part # C2AZ-6436-A $10.00 and I think they are original Ford NOS.

  

Rick, I never stopped to think that you guys have a steering column and shift linkage to contend with down there when you are wrestling with the starter. And up here we complain about the top bolt being hard to get to. I might have never got interested in Y blocks if I had grown up down there.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Another reason the rubber seal is often missing: It is fairly thick, and takes up the wiggle-room needed to get the bolts started. Starter installation is specially tough with a new seal, unless you have a muscular helper.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Kenneth,

Yep, the starter motor is one of the hardest jobs for us in Oz, when it comes to these engines/cars. It is for this reason that when you do up an engine, you are crazy not to make sure the starter will last the distance.

It is partly for this reason, that the 55 Tudor I am restoring is going to remain left hand drive.It is still very much a project in motion but it is coming along well.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

The mini high torque starter are really "trick" I got one on my 54.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ