Being new here and reading what I have on this and other forums about the "Y" EMC adventure, I got to wondering about the bottom end.  I believe I read the EMC engine was capable of 7K + rpm's and I see where a number of you race the engine.  What, if anything do you do about the main caps for durability?  Looking at the current project I'm working on, it struck me that a little creative machining on the block and some spacers, and it would be possible to duplicate the cross bolting process the FE 427 was noted for.  Has anyone tried that?  Does anyone make better caps or does the old motor do just fine once the crank is upgraded?  I saw a spot where the main registers could be drilled for 1/2 arp studs but, given the register width, that seems counter productive.  I'm not considering doing anything with a Y yet, just thinkin.........

Ted's EMC engine has a stud girdle that is cross bolted. I have not seen it with the pan off but it looks good from the outside, and yes it turned 7 grand plus, almost 7500. That engine has a lot of trick pieces and I look forward to the complete write up in Y block mag. He and others have used girdles before that are sandwiched between the pan and block. Some guys have machined the caps flat and used longer studs and flatbar straps. Moonshadow has a block with machined steel main caps that looks good. I don't know if they where a custom one off deal or if someone  offered them at one time. I think that it was a boat engine. Maybe he can provide more details.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I run 1/2" grade 8 bolts, bottom tap the holes deeper also.  Be careful with bolt length on the driver's side of the engine, too long a bolt will block or restrict the side oiler engine passage.  That's right, the Y was the first Ford side oiler.  The location of the oil filter would interfere with the crossbolt, but I know of one engine in Tn that was crossbolted.  I think he used a remote oil filter.  I use stock caps, no girdle, have never had a bearing failure on my blown 485 rwhp engine in my '57 drag car.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

As far as I know the caps were a one off. The block also came with a full stud girdle but it was for a boat pan and front cover (short). I also have used the Offenhauser stud girdles as described. A flat steel plate with longer bolts and spacers. They have a small bolt in the center of the strap to pre-stress the center of the main caps. Was a Flathead thing that carried on into the Y's. The full girdle is a pretty simple design for the Y-block just flat stock, longer main and pan bolts. I'm not sure if the side bolts are really needed for street use. I'm sure Ted will chime in here soon. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Everything that we (Charlie and I) have built uses 1/2" ARP studs on stock caps.  The HP in these engines isn't as high as what Ted and John are producing but they rev plenty high and hold together fine, no unusual bearing wear and the caps stay put.  The engine for Charlies Comet will more than likely end up with a girdle but we intend to put a bit of boost to it.   The bigger problem with the high HP engines (high compression and boosted) is getting the heads to hold.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Main girdles are just good insurance in extreme HP applications but as both John and Tim bring up, there are plenty of examples where some serious horsepower is being made without the use of main girdles.  Good main cap fasteners and the proper torque goes a long way in holding the bottom end of an engine together.  I use girdles more predominantly than most simply due to having the equipment to make it happen but in many cases it’s likely a bit of overkill.  On the other side of the coin, every engine put together with a girdle has performed really well and beyond expectation.  When I did the engine for Randy’s dragster, there was a minimum of 600HP expectation so it was felt that the girdle was a definite requirement.  Part of this was based on SBF experience where stock blocks were being split in half at 550HP without the use of girdles.  Fitting the girdle within the confines of a Y block does allow some crossbolting to take place and also minimizes oil pan clearance problems that can result from sandwiching the girdle between the block and pan.   Here’s a picture of some different Y girdles that sandwich between the block and pan.  One fits a normal length oil pan while the other pair fits the shorter pan used in the marine applications.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Good info. for future consideration.  Thanks.