I have a 1956 Crown Victoria with a 292 Yblock and fordomatic. Engine starts right up in the garage. When I drive a few miles and then stop the car, it does not start right up again. It cranks but does not act like its getting gas. After several tries, I finally crank the engine while pushing the accelerator to the floor. It will eventually start and I can get home. This problem of not or hard starting after the engine has warmed up has happened several times to the point I am afraid to take it anywhere.

Dan, Welcome to the best website on the internet . If you get your problem solved let all of us know. My bird has the same problem and I cant fugure it out. Very frustrating at times.

Welcome, Enjoy the site

55Birdman  Hickory NC

If you have to hold the gas pedal to the floor the problem is in the carb,the fuel is perculating in the bowl or the needle valve and seat is not closing allowing what pressure is left to keep the fuel flowing into the bowl and flooding the motor.  Todays gas is terrible and ruins parts so it might be a time for a carb rebuild and check and see how warm the motor is getting too.

Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

I've had the same problem in various Fords and it's usually caused by a stuck needle and seat in the carb or a float that may be leaking causing the engine to flood. Shut the engine off when its warm and look down the carb and see if you can see fuel dripping down the venturies. If there is a rebuild kit could cure it or a new float. Good luck. 

If it starts with the pedal on the floor it's getting too much fuel. (flooded)  Can be caused by a sticking auto choke or one that's adjusted wrong.  Needs to be adjusted cold and watched as the engine idles to warm to ensure it opens fully.  Depending on climate, I prefer a leaner adjustment with less spring pressure closed and a quicker opening, since these carbs didn't have a choke pulloff, a later addition that actually made auto chokes work pretty well.  This symptom can also be caused by a stuck or partially stuck exhaust heat riser.  If it's stuck partially closed or sticky so it opens late, it can over heat the intake manifold crossover and allow excess heat to boil or percolate fuel in the carb.  The fuel percolates out the vents into the intake and causes the flooded condition.  Can be band-aided with an insulating spacer in some climates but I think eleminating that thing is the answer in all but the coldest of climates.  

Back in the day, some 56 T-Bird owners would leave a brick on the accelerator pedal when parking, if a hot restart was anticipated. While not a real solution, as a stopgap it might keep gas fumes from accumulating. I think parking on a hill was also useful (?).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

If you still have the teapot carb, check the large brass plug on the back of the fuel bowl.  It is the one that allows access to the needle seat.  If that plug loosens, gas runs directly into the secondary throttle bores.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Also check to see that the choke opens when the engine is warmed up.  The heat tube in the bottom of the intake manifold can rust through, and exhaust gets in the choke housing and sticks the piston.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I had same problem. For me it turned out to be the auxillary electric fuel pump which I always used before starting but found it forced fuel through the float valve and flooded, which worked fine when cold but not when hot.

Good luck

Richard

Carb is a Holley Model 4160 465CFM (1848) 4-barrel.