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Advice for possible collapsed lifter and oil system cleaner

Posted By Whitey 15 Years Ago
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Advice for possible collapsed lifter and oil system cleaner

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Whitey
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Normally aspirated

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Last Active: 14 Years Ago
Posts: 37, Visits: 269
Hello All,

Well the 56 272 I have in my ski boat is purring away happily, however she has slipped the same pushrod twice now (I don't think I adjusted it enough the first time) and I have a couple of questions.  I have purchased a 55 customline manual but it isn't very concise and doesn't cover anything on checking and replacing the lifters.  I have been told that the problem lifter may be collapsing, and this makes sense as there is a marked visible difference on the available thread on the adjuster (wound further in) compared to the rest of them too have the correct setting.  Does anybody have an electronic copy of a good manual for the y block that I can refer too, as I'm new to the motor and v8's for that matter, or recomend a godd concise manual to buy? 

Also is there anything else I should be looking for to gauge how much use this motor has had, and what may be needed, sorry for being pretty vague.  I recently bought it as a neglected ski boat for several years and have cleaned her up and as stated she is now running beautiful.  Now burnt valves, idles perfectly once warmed up, and ran for a good hour last weekend on the river just cruising around at about half to 2/3 throttle with no dramas, after the pushrod was re-fitted as it slipped after a couple of minutes of starting.  I didn't get right into her and I just wanted to ease her back in as she hasn't been run for years.   Too be honest I thought she would get up and go a bit harder at that throttle as it's only a 16' glass boat that's pretty light, that's why I think she may be a bit tired.

She now has new oil and filter, but when I had the sump off there was a bit of sludge in the bottom, luckily with no metal pieces found.  Does anybody recommend any of the additives that I can add to the oil that would help in removing/disolving any buildup in the oil system?  One side pumps like crazy, but the side (passenger side for usa) is no where the same volume, but does continually get oil at idle, with the suspected collapsed lifter having the least.

I apoligise for the simple questions but still learning my way around the motor and I don't want to get rid of the old girl as I simply don't have a great deal of cash and it fits perfectly with the old classic ski boat.

Cheers  Geoff, Downunder as well.

My first V8!!

Brisbane, Australia!!

aussiebill
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Last Active: 5 Years Ago
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Whitey, they dont have collapsed lifters like hydraulics as they are solid, rather if adjuster is down noticbly further could be worn cam lobe, worn rocker arm, different length pushrod? As mentioned before, get someone with mechanical knowledge to check cam lift on troublesome rockers/valves. OR pull heads and fix valve problem.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Daniel Jessup
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Supercharged

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Geoff, All Y block lifters are solid...never heard of one collapsing. However, I have seen a number of cams that have had way too much lobe wear on them (usually the cam has more wear than the lifter, causing the adjusting screw to not have too much "adjustment room" left). What spec are you using the adjust the rocker arms? If the rocker arms have as much wear as the rest of the motor, you may want use the Walt Nuckels method of rocker arm adjustment (just search this site - easy to find). Is that particular valve ok?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


Y block Billy
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Last Active: 7 Years Ago
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whether the cam is worn or not, if you installed a new push rod and set clearances, it is dropping out due to a sticking valve. Hence your last post the inconsistent banging, was probably the piston pushing the valve back up.

You could put air in the cylinder or a cotton rope to prevent valve from dropping inside, remove keepers, retainer and spring, then the umbrella seal. See if you can rotate valve by stem and see if there is any bend to it, make sure it is straight, If it is you could then take a cordless drill, install it on the tip of the valve and work it with penetrant (I like marvel mystery oil or tranny fluid for something like this) up and down slowly. do not drop it in the cylinder and do not come up with it hard on the seat. once you know it is free, blow off with air and soak with oil. reassemble.

That is if you do not want to remove the head.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?



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