Mark, I'm kinda following your advice for my Granada disc swap. I'm going non-power, will I need a proportioning valve. I've been told I don't need any extra valves as long as it's non-power and the MC is mounted above the floor, what did you do? Thanx, gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Gary, this link may help. Mike

http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-support/configurations.cfm

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

You will need a proportioning valve.The front discs do about 70-80% of the braking.I have used an adjustable on mine tee-ed into the rear line at the frame.The line from the master goes into it on one side and out the other to the rear brakes.I can adjust how much preesure goes to the rear,The idea is the rear should not have enough pressure to cause the car to start turning in a hard stop situation-at least thats how I understand it.The disc brakes need more pressure to make them work than the rears because they obviously dont have the self-energizing advantage that the rears have.I am interested to see how you like yours with the manual setup as opposed to the power booster type.The fellow that you and I got ours from(and Mike)Irish Dave,sells both stock type and adjustable prop valves. Mike has used a factory style prop valve on his.If you do a search for Granada disc brakes there is a good pic of his setup.By the way I can't take credit for knowing how to do the Granada brakes.I picked up my info mostly from others on this site.Asked the same questions you have been asking.Great site!

  

Hi Gary,  You may or may not need a proportioning valve.  It can't hurt to have one, but you may not need it.  I'm not claiming to be an expert but I installed a complete disc brake kit on my '57 T-Bird and the stopping power is much improved.  Many of the disc brake kits (at least for T-Birds) do not use a proportioning valve, instead they use smaller rear wheel cylinders to compensate for the increased presssure.  In this case it is 7/8" diameter instead of 15/16" for the rear cylinders.  The test, once you have the discs installed, is to do a panic stop and see if the rear wheels lock up.  They should not lock up before the front wheels do.  If they do, then you either need different brake shoes or a proportioning valve.  Brake shoes have different coefficient of friction ratings, the higher the number then the less pressure they need to stop.  The so-called "lifetime" shoes usually are very hard and have a lower friction coefficient, so more pressure is needed to stop the car.  But they may work better with a disc setup.  Usually the lifetime shoes and pads are to be avoided on classic cars like we have, they take tons of pressure to stop and are usually hard on the drums and rotors.  I'm not using a power booster on our '57 and the pedal pressure is not bad at all, and the car always stops straight as an arrow.  Hope this is helpful.  Nick Brann - Kansas City, MO

I installled a set of discs on my 55 bird some time ago. I did not install a proportioning valve. I took off my brake booster as well. The discs are on stock spindles. I have a 78 Granada dual master cylinder. I have stock rear wheel cylinders . I have had no problems with stopping . I was told as you are being told to install one then not to. I can only say if you think you need it then install it. If not then dont install until you think you  do need it. The only thing I did install was new brake lines all around. Everything works fine. Seems to have plenty of stopping power. Try it without one and decide from that.

55Birdman  Hickory NC

Just going to add another 2 cents to my first answer.The adjustable valve I installed can be purchased for about $35.00 from the Irish Dave.Its a lot easier to install it now while you have the brakes apart than to go back after,install it and rebleed the brakes.You have the flexibility to "tune"the way the brakes react.Also I would point out the "Birds"are much lighter and physically shorter than the fullsize cars.Just a liitle more opinion.

  

Hey Mark, as I'm kinda copying your set-up, where did you mount your proportioning valve, is it visible from under the hood, can you get at it? I got the Wilwood valve from speedway, it's a nice unit, has everything in it, just trying to figure where to put it. Thanx, Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Gary!Are you using an adjustable one?  I mounted mine where the line from the master came down to the frame.There was a 3-way connector which I removed and put the adjustable valve in its place.The rear line on the frame screws into the  "out" side of the valve and the line from the master screws into the "in" side.Its not really noticeable unless you look real close but I can adjust it by reaching down and turning the knob.Just make a note of which way to turn it to "increase" or "decrease "  to the rear brakes.I dont know if the one you have has a mounting bracket or just holes through it to bolt to frame.I used a piece of plated straight braket bolted to the valve on one side and bolted it to side of frame with  self tapping bolts.Valve sits on top of frame where the 3-way connector was.I am sure you are finding it harder to mount things and run lines on the frame with motor in.I found it obviously easier with motor out.