I have been working on the installation of the RM timing set.  The camshaft gear is extremely tight on the new Isky cam.  So much so that to remove it will either require heating for expansion, or the use of a gear puller.   Is this normal?  The shaft has the black coating on the lobes and end, which may be interferring.  Should that be buffed off the nose with 800 grit?  It is installed now, but in a straightup position.  The current plan is to degree the cam and then reinstall to an appropriate advance.

Question:  How far onto the cam nose is the gear supposed to go?  It currently sits with the woodruff key exposed even after the first keyed spacer is positioned, interfering with the next nonkeyed spacer (dont know the spacer names).

Last ?:  I'm unclear regarding the number and type of spacers that go in front of the gear.  Fuel pump drive wont be used, due to electric pump.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

You should have a spacer (this goes on before you install the key), the cam sprocket, the keyed spacer, the fuel pump eccentric, another spacer washer and a thick flat washer. It looks like the gear slides up against the cam thrust plate. I too will be installing an electric fuel pump but I am going to leave the eccentric installed so that I have a backup if the electric pump dies for some reason. The eccentric is light and so close to the centerline of the cam that it probably won't have any measurable affect on performance. John Mummert has a spacer washer that replaces the eccentric.

Be sure to check the camshaft back lash to make sure that the core plug is not interfering with the cam. I checked it before installing the plug so that I knew what it should be with the plug installed.

Make sure you have the instructions for the timing set. The way you advance and retard it is not like you may think but it's still easy to use.


Lawrenceville, GA

I thought what I had was a spacer to go inplace of the eccentric, but it  is actually for the weight (at least that is the way it appears after rereading Mummerts description).  Is there a replacement for the eccentric itself?  It must have to be keyed, right?

Charlie the set would be easy to use if it would go into place with less than 1-2 hours of work. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

After rereading the instructions I removed the set and reinstalled at 4 degrees advance.  It went much better.  Used a puller to get the cam wheel off and that worked well too.

Thanks for the diagram buns, it helps.  The spacer from Mummert replaces 6290 (weight).  I dont have the 6287, so I found two more of the same spacer I ordered from JM.  After side trimming both of the extras they mount to the nose very close (within .002 to .005) to flush with the end.  After tightening the cam bolt and washer, the spacer assembly is solid.  Two of the three are indexed by the cam woodruff key.  The third outer spacer is not.  Should I leave it like it is, or continue working on the outer to make it a little thinner so it will basically float?

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

It comes down to trying to make this work without the eccentric, using 3 identical spacers like John Mummert sells to replace the counter weight.  No other combination is close enough.  Tried the Mummert spacer plus .28 thick sleeve, and it is quite short of the end.  The mummert spacer plus .28 thick sleeve and another mummert spacer is too long.  The three counterweight replacements are virtually flush after surfacing, but do currently lock up when the cam bolt is snugged down.  Seems like they need to be surfaced somemore to have lateral travel or the back of the cam gear is going to jamb against the thrust plate. 

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

I had to use the full 8 degrees of advance to install my cam.  It's only on a 110* center line with that 8* advance.  It's supposed to be 108*.  It was at a 119* center line in the straight up position of the gears.  I'm hoping that ford was very consistent with the cranks.  The cam and timing set were used in the previous engine.  The crank is the only part changed that can affect the cam timing from what it was.  If they were consistent, I should have a good bump in lower end power because of the advance.  I didn't degree the cam on the old install so I really don't know where it was.

The cam gear on mine just slid on.  It's a very close fit.  I have to use a rubber hammer to get the crank gear on the key and a short pry bar to get it off but it's not too bad.

Isn't it parts 4269 and 4265 that controls the end play?  I don't believe that the  cam sprocket and other spacers have anything to do with the end play.

I haven't measured the overall length of the spacers and sprocket but mine are longer than the nose of the cam when installed.  They don't come flush with the cam.

I would try the cam straight up before advancing it.  Depending on the intended use, you may find that you want to retard it.  You have a truck which is already light in the rear.  Advancing typically enhances low end power.  Unless you have traction, you may find that it's too easy to burn out with the cam advanced - especially uphill, in the rain.  I could burn out quite easily with the old motor and I believe the cam was retarded in that one.

Lawrenceville, GA

Your experience on setting timing is appreciated.  The cam here is an Isky e-4 with 108 degree centerline.  One of my objectives is mileage, and the rearend is 3.00.  So the thinking on this end is to have the cam perform at low rpms.

  The next step after getting the spacer issue resolved is degreeing and I have an issue there also.  The dial indicator and stand cant mount in the valley due to lack of space.  If I mount it on the deck the indicator shaft isnt long enough to reach the lifter.  Have thought about lightly bolting down a head with pushrod installed, and measure movement at the top of the rocker adjusting bolt with zero lash.  I'm also going to look around the barn and see if there is something that will slip over the indicator shaft and act as an extension.  Other ideas?

 

Mike

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

If you have an old late model push rod [ the tube type} you might cut it down to make an extension for the dial ind.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Mike,

Don't give me too much credit.  This is my second time installing a cam.

I purchased a set of dial indicator extensions, from McMaster-Carr, to measure the lift.  The set came with a 1", 2" and 3" extension.  They all screw together so you can get 6", 5", and 4" as well.  I think I ended up using the 3" and 1", providing a 5" depth with the indicator. 

www.mcmaster.com  The part number is 20625A124.  They are only $8.85.  I thought about using a push rod as well.  It just seemed too fumbly.

Lawrenceville, GA

I will take another look at the spacers today.  Thanks Buns. 

Those extensions look like the ticket to success Charlie.  As you know the motor build has been expensive, so there is reluctance to keep buying stuff, but the price in this case is right. 

I tried checking the timing using a pushrod.  Preloaded the dial indicator on the end with approx. .150 inches and lined up to the best of my sight ability.  Checking points were consistent.  However maximum lift measured .280 and advertised is .283, so there was error I assume.  Started the process trying to measure actual initial lift and closing points, but realized that was not going to be possible with the 11 inch wheel.  It may be possible with an 18 inch wheel, a finer indicator or with someone more experienced.  The last thing I tried before stopping was degrees at .050 BDC on the exhaust, and came up with 41 degrees.  Advertised is 36.  Timing set is at the 4 degree advanced position.  At least I feel a little better about the process now. 

Mike    

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.