Still have the problem (posted 1 yr. ago). Happens very rarely, and a short wait will usually enable starting. But, quite puzzling, nonetheless.



Things I have considered:



1. Point plate sticking in full advanced position? (both my distributors perform perfectly on the road, and problem not limited to either).

2. Failing starter solenoid? (fairly new part, and if it WAS failing, why does it function perfectly 99+% of the time?).

3. Worn starter? (also occurs with fresh rebuilt unit).

4. Bad battery/cable connections? (then why does it crank like gangbusters 99+% of the time?).



Any new ideas?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

In electrical terms resistance = heat and heat = resistance.

When your engine compartment warms up it puts extra strain on your electrical components as everything in the engine compartment will be warmer.

The symptoms you have posted would suggest that the starter is at fault - but you say it is the same with a rebuilt unit.Are you sure they are both OK. The symptom you are describing is similar to what happens when the bearings in the starter are shot and the armature starts binding on the stator. This is referred to as Poling.

If both starters are OK it could be your solenoid switch or the wiring to and from the battery/starter motor.

Have you tried to start the car when it is hard to start with a set of jumper leads to another fully charged battery.

If it is alright in that instance, it is your battery or its connections and it would be best to run the car with another battery and get it to the temperature when it usually rears its head. This will eradicate the battery from the problem. You may need to clean the battery terminals.

The fact that the starter turns means the ignition switch is pulling in the starter solenoid OK but there could still be a problem with the contacts in the solenoid. To check this short across the solenoid connections with jumper leads when it is hard to start. If there is no change then it is either the battery or the battery/starter motor wiring. If the engine then spins freely it is the solenoid.

These problems always need a systematic check to see what is happening.

A voltmeter may make it easier to see what is happening but it may confuse you more.

Lastly, you make mention of timing. If the engine is too far advanced it will be very hard to start, but it should be the same whether hot or cold.A timing light will diagnose any timing issues.

If your car is 6 Volt any loose dirty connection will create issues.

As one last thing to consider if a connection is dirty it will become resistant to current flow and you should feel heat locally at the point where the resistance is.

Hope this is isn't too long winded.

Regards

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Being intermittent, I’ll put the battery at the bottom of the list but corroded, dirty, or loose electrical connections will stay at the forefront.  A dragging starter is also a possibility and especially with six volts.  Ignition timing stays at the top of the list.  If you can give the engine a couple shots of fuel, let it sit for fifteen seconds, and then the engine initially turns over slowly but then speeds up and catches, ignition timing is the first place to look.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Connections all clean & tight.

Since the problem is SO intermittent, and only happens when distant from home (where specialty tools & spare battery reside), it's especially tough to diagnose. Even IF I dragged everything needed around with me in the hope I could be prepared, experience indicates that by the time I got it out/hooked it up, problem would disappear.

I will likely just form the habit of attempting a restart every time I return to park in the garage, where all diagnostic tools, etc. are out & ready. By concentrating on one specific possible cause at a time, process of elimination may eventually nail it.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

[quote][b]Ted (5/15/2010) Being intermittent, I’ll put the battery at the bottom of the list...



Amazing what a difference new battery makes! Replacing the starter helped some, but limit of max. possible initial advance even then (would barely turn over at 8-10 degrees) totally gone. Hot motor now spins freely with 16 degrees. 2nd tired battery tried in parallel was no help at all. I guess even types with the latest technology still have a typically limited life span, no matter how well maintained.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA