So My plan today was to spend two hours finally breaking in the cam...Didn't happen, I'm in worse position than I was a day ago...

I've been trying for two days to get this things turned over. I was convinced that it was just a timing issue, but now i'm not so sure? The starter is turning her over, i'm getting spark (little), and i know it's getting fuel. I just don't know what's wrong. On top of this, these are my major dilemmas:

1.) My Starter Solenoid smokes when I try to start the car???
2.) My ignition coil exploded????
3.) I haven't been able to get the thing turned over AT ALL...

Has ANYONE ever heard of this happening before? What could be the culprit.

-I'm 95% confident in my wiring. (It DOES try to turn over and I DO get spark, just not a massive amount)
-I'm 50% on whether i'm on the compression or exhaust stroke(What makes me think i am is because i put my finger over the #1 cylinder and stopped at TDC after I had compression blow through the #1 cylinder....is this right?)
-I know I have my spark plug wires are correct and timing "cylinder-wise" is correct.

I'm to the point where I just want to take it to someone and pay them to get this cam broken in. I'm so worried i've just blown $3,000 in an engine build that's going to be worthless :-/

I'm completely freaking out. Please someone help.

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

You have some sort of electrical problem to chase down.



A fool proof way to make sure you're on the compression stroke is to remove the valve cover and ensure that both valves are closed.


Lawrenceville, GA

Settle down, if the guys on this sight can't get it right no one can. This is what I did for my first startup and it fired right off, scared me, If you got your valve covers off, turn the engine by hand in the correct rotation, watch the intake valve on #1 open and close, right after it closes the piston in #1 should be coming up, just before top the dizzy should be pointing to #1 or close by and your damper should be close to tdc and it should fire there. The rest of the problems I'd look at first, smoke and explosions aren't cool. Gary

       

Gary, 55 Vicky, St. Germain, Wisconsin

 

Take a deep breath. So in order for an engine to run ( and start ) you need spark at the right time and fuel.

FIRST find TDC on the compression stroke. What cylinder is NUMBER ONE? As others have said take off the valve covers, take out all the spark plugs and turn the engine until the intake closes on number one INTAKE VALVE and the mark on the damper is at TDC.

NOW, where is the rotor pointing? It should be at number one terminal on the distributor cap.

Turn on the ignition and turn the distributor with the cap off back and forth until you get a spark from the points. With distributor cap on and a wire to the number one sparkplug place the plug on the engine NOT IN THE engine and turn the distributor back and forth and CHECK for a NICE FAT BLUE spark. Now you have spark at the right time.

Check that gas shoots from the squirters. Now you have fuel.

AS to the electrical problems check your connectins and grounds. Check polarity of wire to coil. Smoke fron wires is never good and must be fixed first.

Try to relax and it will work out fine. Pete

Also, just to make srue you know, #1 on these engines is the front PASSENGER side cylinder.  It is opposite of a typical scrub engine.

Does the solenoid smoke quickly, or do you have to turn it over for a long time?  You shouldnt crank more than 15 seconds or so at a time, as you will overheat the starter, etc.

When you say your coil exploded, what exactly happened?  Was it a new coil?  What are you doing for ignition (i.e. points, pertronix, etc)?

As others have said, fix wiring issues first. 

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

I have points, replaced the condenser, points, etc. gapped at .014-.016. All i can think of doing is using my spare ignition switch and wiring it on the outside...idk...

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Once you confirm that your timing is correct; rotor pointing at number one (number one cylinder is on the front (radiator) end of the head on the passenger side) wire on the dist. cap, spark plug wires are in the correct firing order position in relation to the distributor rotation, both valves closed on number one cylinder, and the crankshaft timing mark for TDC is at the timing pointer, you might consider that you have a "tight" engine. Meaning if the cylinder walls were bored and pistons/rings replaced it could be a tight fit in each cylinder making it too much of a load for the starting system to carry until the engine starts and runs a little to wear in. Hopefully, the pistons were dipped in motor oil ( I used to use a mix of 3/4 motor oil and 1/4 Ford oil conditioner ) when they were installed in the cylinders. Try removing the plugs and turning the engine by hand with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft dampener bolt. If it is really hard to turn, try squirting a small amount of motor oil in each cylinder and then rotating the engine by hand to help lubricate the cylinder walls and free it up a little. Hope that helps.



Mark

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I don't think it's the motor, it sounds like it's rotating fine. I have to work on the timing. I'm highly considering rewiring everything again. Do I REALLY need a resisitor between the ignition switch and the positive side of the coil?

William



1957 Ford Fairlane 500

292 Bored .30 over

Fordomatic

Is the coil original? The coil should have something like "use with external resistor" or "use without external resistor". That will determine whether or not you need an inline resistor in the wiring harness.



It almost sounds like your distributor is a tooth out. You have all the directions you need to ensure that it isn't, so just follow everyone's advice and you'll be fine.



We've probably all been there... Just keep eliminating things.

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Is the motor turning over evenly? No "skipping" or pops out of the carb or backfires? Have you looked at the plugs since you have tried to start it so many times? Are the plugs gas fouled; black soot on the electrodes or wet with unburned fuel? I would also like to understand what happened to your coil. Did actually explode? Like a grenade or something?



Mark

57 Black Tbird 312/auto