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oldcarmark
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If the valve lash is correctly adjusted should you still be able to hear the lifter noise when warmed up?I suspect mine are too tight as I cannot hear any lifter noise when warmed up and the vacuum gauge has a irregular "wander "of about 1 inch up and down at idle.Also have rough idle which worsens as motor heats up.Have about 15 vacuum at idle in neutral.

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Ol'ford nut
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It's a solid lifter engine, they may quiet down warmed up but you should still hear them. What method did you use to adjust them? I do mine cold, tighten them up to zero lash (push rod still rotates by fingers) and then back them up 1/4 turn.
Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa
56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.
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oldcarmark
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Thats the way I did them.Being a new motor parts may have "settled" a little so I will redo the adjustment.Just was not sure If there should still be an audible valve noise after adjustment and warmed up.Hopefully that should bring the vacuum reading up to where I think it should be around 18 or so with stock cam.

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HT32BSX115
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lifter noise And of course..........it's NOT noise!!! Cheers, Rick
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!
--------------------- This post was created using OpenSuSE Linux x64 and Firefox
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aussiebill
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Ol'ford nut (6/18/2010)
It's a solid lifter engine, they may quiet down warmed up but you should still hear them. What method did you use to adjust them? I do mine cold, tighten them up to zero lash (push rod still rotates by fingers) and then back them up 1/4 turn. That method may work but is more suited to hydraulic lifters, unless 1/4 turn or 1/4 of the adjuster screw pitch is approx .019", then i dont suggest its is the correct way to be doing them. i have allways split the fireing order, 1548 6372 Set #1 tappets rocking on both valves then adjust gap on #6, rotate engine till #5 is rocking and set #3, otherwise 1/4 crankturn is next cyl rocking. follow it through till #2 is gapped, then rotate engine till #6 is rocking and gap #1, rotate till #3 rocking and gap #5 etc. just the way i,ve done it for years.
AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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Moz
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if i dont hear the lifters i think ive either gone deaf or somethings wrong with the cam or lifters
 moz. geelong victoria australia. graduate 1980, bus, truck, car, hot rod, boat, submarine, hovercraft, hydrafoil, firetruck, mobile home, jet, helicopter, cruise ship, motorcycle, bicycle, santa's sleigh, clock, alloy bullbar, alloy fuel tank, lens, dr who's tardis, matter - anti matter warp drive buffer & y-block lover
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charliemccraney
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They should make some noise but if it starts sounding like an air cooled VW, something is wrong.
Lawrenceville, GA
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oldcarmark
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Hello Aussiebill. There is an article somewhere from one of the T-Bird clubs.Someone did some mathematical calculations based on the pitch of the adjuster threads. 1/4 turn of the screw is .0192 lash which is about as close to .019 as you can get.If there is wear on the rocker arm its almost impossible to get an accurate reading with a feeler gauge.1/4 turn is more accurate with old rocker arms.I set my valves turning the motor 1/4 turn starting with #1 cylinder(on compression) and follow the firing order one at a time.Thanks Charlie!I am hard of hearing so I asked my buddy if he could hear any lifter noise once warmed up.Says no so I will get into it today and reset the valves.I will ask him again once I readjust the valves.

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charliemccraney
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That method assumes the use of 1.54:1 rockers. The screw is 20 threads per inch. 1/20 = .05", .05*1.54 = .077", .077/4 = .01925" With 1.43:1 rockers, it will be about .018" With 1.6:1 rockers, it will be .02" Still pretty close in any case.
Lawrenceville, GA
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oldcarmark
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Thanks Charlie.Didnt know that.Whats the ratio on the 55 292 arms?

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