John Mummert (7/23/2010)
When I quote an engine job I give people a base price and tell them "every time you say I want the price goes up". Now if you know where to get parts for free you might be able to build a better engine at no additional cost. I have not yet figured out how to install forged pistons for the same price as cast, or how supply aftermarket rods at the same cost as reusing the originals. Last time I ordered from ARP they wanted a lot of money for their fasteners. In short, the more power and RPM you try to wring out of an engine the better the parts need to be in the engine if you want it to live. Higher RPM=Better parts=More money!
I'll bite my tongue now
"Speed costs how fast do you want to go". Rubbish.
Method 1. Ok I decide to rebuild my 312. I decide that it will just be rebored and not interfered with in terms of capacity. I could (should) have my rods resized but instead I buy a set of BT rods and sell my old 312 rods on ebay. I can have a set of performance rods at little or no cost. Especially compared to what I needed to outlay to recon.
Method 2. I decide to save some cash on a rebuild and go with someone that says that can do it at less than the bloke down the road. Or I get talked out of performance component because “Speed cost” “just how fast do you want to go?” I have an engine failure. Or because of the restriction the part I saved on restricts me from what I wanted in the first place. This costs me a second rebuild or sell and move on.
Informing myself by asking questions and finding and realizing limitations builds a better engine and saves as it eliminates the need for a second rebuild because the limitation were not realized in the first place. Do as good as you can first up and never have to look back
Method 3. I read a great internet article on performance parts and horsepower robbing components. The guy in question rebuilt a 302 using H beam rods, light pistons, moly push rods etc, to realize a 10% gain in performance without changing the parameters of the engine. 10%. There would be a saving in fuel costs and this engine would last longer. Performance parts that are often considered strengthening or reliability improvements can be also considered performance parts. If you used Ted’s test mule with alloy heads and added these parts to gain another 10% how sweet would that be? There is bang for buck in these components. Cost savings in engine life and fuel can be considered.
Method 4. The other end of the spectrum. I have a unlimited budget I want a Y block that delivers a certified dyno tested 1000hp and have it so streetable that my wife can drive it to church on Sunday. “Speed cost, just how fast do you want to go?” indicates that with money you can go faster and faster and have just what you want. Impossible as there are limitations.
I have had experience with most of the above examples including both of the examples in method 2. Both Mechanic’s (I use the term loosely) favorite statement was “Speed cost, just how fast do you want to go?”
Lastly my first passion is motorcycling I have three Moto Guzzi. If you think costs are high for a reasonably common 8V try buying stuff for an obscure Italian V twin. I bought Carillo rods. A set (pair) $1400 the last standard OEM cast piston I bough was almost $500. When things go bust on a motorcycle you don’t necessarily quietly pull over to the side of the road.
I thought you guy's lived in the USA where free thought, free expression and justice for all prevailed.
Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)