The plan was just to reseal the engine and rebuild the oil pump ( heh, the kit was $18 ).

I have tight budget for now on this and a deadline I am trying to meet. As you know a set of just main bearings is about $100.00. Where do I stop?



The cam & lifters look real good, no real valve stem wear on the rocker arms, cylinders look good no scoring no ridge other than a little carbon above the compression ring - it ran good but leaked.



I don't usually do this kind of thing - if I tear an engine down this far I just mill it, bore it - you get the idea.



This look OK to stick it back together with a fresh set of gaskets?



Thanks














1964 F 100 LWB Roller 5.0 & T-5

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train



"I still have a Y block - it's just not in anything yet."

First thing I would suggest is to clean up the heads and have them magnafluxed to check for cracks. Remove the valves and check for cracks in the seats. If that checks out, check for a straight deck. 

There are so many variables that can't be seen until you have a machine shop inspect the engine.

Why spend your hard earned money on gaskets when you can buy some assurance from the machinist that you can use the engine.

If you're on a time line,it's gonna cost you any way you go, so let your conscience be your guide  

Bud in Northern Arizona on route 66 in Winslow (standin' on the corner)

If you're American, buy American

631/2 Galaxie 500XL 406   55 T-Bird

It seems like there isn't quite enough info in this post.  The two main points that are missing are: how did it run before being taken down and what is the engine intended for?  If the compression and oil pressure were good when it was taken down,  the engine isn't going to see much hard service, money is an issue, and you don't mind putting it in the vehicle and taking it out again at a later date I would probably clean it up, check out such items as valve springs and seals and put it back together. We all tend to try to build engines to the maximum degree we know about but in reality FoMoCo sort of slammed them together with much wider tolerances than we want to hear about and most of them ran pretty well.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Whoops = typing stuff out too fast.

The engine ran great, the reason I only wanted to reseal it.

BTW use - just want it run good to drive it.

I'll build the other Y I have up for it later.


1964 F 100 LWB Roller 5.0 & T-5

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train



"I still have a Y block - it's just not in anything yet."

I think that you have answered your own question.

Just seal it back up and rebuild your other engine, though by the look of it this may be a better engine to rebuild.

It all gets down to time and money.

If you have the time and the money recondition this engine but if not put it back together and rebuild the other engine at your leisure.

If it ran alright before you pulled it down it will run alright when you put it back together, but I bet you will hear every little rattle from here on.

Regards

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

I think I am just going to throw a new set of std mains in it while it's apart - I can get a set at one of the local stores here for $73.50.

I just checked the head & block decks with a .002 feeler gauge - can't get it under the straight edge.

1964 F 100 LWB Roller 5.0 & T-5

2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ

2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train



"I still have a Y block - it's just not in anything yet."

Is the oil pump kit for the rotor type?


Lawrenceville, GA