My 292 was broke in today with 2k rpm for 15 minutes straight. at about the 12 minute mark, my new, mechanical, sunpro guage was showing 190 degrees, then starting climbing to 200 and then what seemed to me like it would keep going. So, I shut her down. Is it common to get this kind of overheating on a new Y? My water pump and hoses and belt and 180 degree t'stat are all new and working fine. My radiator is good, and by the way, so is my cap. It held the pressure in, and nothing came out of the overflow until I twisted the cap to let off pressure a few minutes later. No leaks either, for which I am happy. Oh yes - 4 blade fan, stock 55 272 radiator, nothing extra.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

supreme Being ,   it could be the timming , double check .!!  I had the sme problem ,  a new desert cooler radiator cured the problem ...Some times just sittin still , with not enough air going thru will cause problems ,,  a fan shroud  is supposed to  increase air flow 20 per cent  ....Just some thoughts ..........Sam 

56 victoria

Daniel:

Normally, an engine running at 2000 rpm for that length of time is going down the road 50 mph or more, and has a lot of ram air hitting the radiator.  Sitting still, you have only the fan drawing air in.  Maybe you don't have a problem.  See what it does on the road before you make any drastic moves.  200 degrees won't hurt it as long as you keep the water in.  I know you haven't idled it enough to see what the temp would do in stop-n-go traffic.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hoosier - that's what I suspected, but I just wanted to make sure. When you got so much time, effort, and money involved, you want things to go as right as rain. It may be a couple of weeks before she finally moves out under her own power, as I still have a few more checks and tune up work to do. She runs well without me really setting the timing or even touching the carb to tune it a little. I think once in a while a blind hog finds an ear of corn - seems to be so in this instance...things have gone pretty well except for the firing order and the ccw reminder. Just waiting for the inevitable big mistake I guess

Thanks for the peace of mind

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Just an anecdote on Sunpro gauges.  I had a new Sunpro electrical gauge on my virtually new motor, and it kept showing hot, similarly to yours.  It would go up to 190, and then tend to keep climbing to 205 or so.  There wasnt any reason for that much heat, so I bought an Autolite elect. gauge.  Put the two respective sensors in the same glass of water with all the wiring to the guages on the table.   INserted a calibrated thermometer, and the Sunpro was 15 degrees high.  The Autolite was right on.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.

If after eliminating all the other suggestions that were made, and they are all valid, a fresh engine when first started will typically generate more heat just by lieu of more friction from the intial break in process.  If this is the case, then you'll likely have no ring seating issues down the road.  Those engines that start up and don't initially try to overheat typically are problematic in early oil comsumption until the rings do eventually seat in.  As has been mentioned, I wouldn't be overly concerned at this point until the engine is in a position to be driven down the road and properly broken in.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Diggerdon, are you the same "Diggerdon" that has a machine shop in GA? If so welcome to the site, I've heard alot of good comments about your work and I am sure that you have a lot of info for those of us with less experience.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Dan,

          Everybody's right on so far, I wouldn't worry, but do watch it and don't let it get hot. I have a 24 inch floor fan I set in front of mine. You need one of those in the summer anyhow!!

    

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

For all who care to know -- My new Y block is running good. My overheating little problem has now settled in at 165 degrees at idle (while running the camshaft in, even!!) I couldn't be more thrilled. Good oil pressure, great idle, she is now timed and tuned - nothing like that good old Y sound - I almost cried it's been so long!

Pulled my gas tank tonight What a mess! about a 1/4" of crud in the bottom of the tank. How she was sucking anything up to the fuel pump, I don't know - she sucked a little, but not enough to keep the fuel bowl full. I hooked a gas can to the rear of the gas line from the rear of the car under the trunk, and she ran fine - no problems. My gas line is in great shape -- but that old tank needs some help. What kind of shop will "cook" it out? And what kind of work should I get done?? (besides cleaning and coating)

One last thing - where can I find a gas gauge at good price? (12 volt 55 Ford Club Sedan) My old one was working fine, but after pulling that thing out of the tank - She won't last long!!

Dan 

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I had the same problem with my car.  I had to take the tank to a shop on the IL/WIS boarder that did chemical stripping.  They did a controlled acid bath I believe to clean out all rust/varnish/goo/etc from the inside.  It was about $75, and then my local radiator shop coated the inside/painted the tank for about $125-140???  Good as new now.

- John

John: Lake Forest, IL



'57 Fairlane 500 - Looking better every day.