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Starter Solenoid question - Help! Car wont shut off!

Posted By rgrove 18 Years Ago
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rgrove
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Hey all... Been buried at work the last few months, so havent been able to work on the car much until last weekend.  Ive got an iginition problem that has me perplexed and Im hoping that one of the resident geniuses may have an idea?....so here goes..

Car is a 56 ford with a 292, '57 distributor with pertronix.  Car has been running fine.  All wiring new about 6 years/10,000 miles ago.  Car is converted to a 1-wire alternator which ties into the "Batt" terminal on the starter solenoid.  None of the components/wiring is different than it has been for past 6 years or so.

Problem is that the car wont shut off...It just keeps running regardless of the key position.  Here is what I have done/checked so far...

Replaced the ignition switch.  CHecked the new one (had it laying around actually) to ensure that it was functioning properly... it is.

Disconnected the alternator belt to prevent it charging.  Diconnected the cable as well to ensure no faulty diode, etc.

Key off/engine off shows the coil has voltage at the terminals

The car will shut off IF I disconnect the red/blue wire OR Brown wire on the starter solenoid.  (red/BL is from the ign switch; brn is to coil)

Continuity tester shows NO connection between the (+) BATT terminal on the starter solenoid and the red/blue wire with the key OFF

Continuity tester shows continuity between the (+) BATT terminal of the solenoid and the BRN (COIL) terminal on top of the Solenoid.  That is regardless of key position; even with red/BLU disconnected.  Is that normal?  It seems to me that there may be an internal issue with the solenoid that is causing direct power from the (+) BATT terminal to the BRN COIL lead?  Is my solenoid faulty, or am I missing something?

Ive gone through all the schematics I can find, and it doesnt seem like I should have the continuity between the aforementioned, but Im not an engineer, and Im not well versed in ignition systems.

Please help... what did I miss?

THANKS in advance for any and all ideas!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

GREENBIRD56
Posted 18 Years Ago
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I think you need a new 4 pole solenoid. The "brown wire" - the jumper that goes around the ballast resistor and powers the coil direct for starting - should be interupted when the starter disconnects. 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona
rgrove
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Thanks for the reply!  I looked through the schematic that you posted earlier to someone elses question as well... all great info.

Im assuming that by "4-pole" solenoid you mean a stock type replacement?  Just want to confirm.

Thanks for the help!!!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

GREENBIRD56
Posted 18 Years Ago
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Yep .....

1=Battery Cable Terminal (I also use this as the junction for the alternator feed and the yellow #10 that goes into the main harness of my Thunderbird)

2=Starter Cable Terminal

3=Start Enable (wire from ignition key switch and usually through neutral switch) - it actuates the solenoid

4=Small Auxillary Contact Terminal (provides terminal for the jumper around the ballast resistor in "start") - should be open when the Starter Cable terminal is open.

For some reason it doesn't seem that (4) is opening along with (2) when the start enable is released. It then provides power to both the coil and the Pertronix module? Otherwise the ignition would be disabled. got one to swap in there? They are about $7 at NAPA. 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

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Sounds like yours is wired the same as mine (alternator cable on the BATT terminal of the solenoid). 

It has continuity between (1) and (4) at all times, energized or not.  Tried rapping on the solenoid to loosen a stuck actuator, etc. but to no avail.  Im assuming something is really jammed/arced....

I tried a quick test with it today - I disconnected the BRN wire (coil) wire on the solenoid (#4 in your description), and the car started and ran fine, shut off fine too!  Cranked just a hair longer (presumably due to lower voltage at the coil due to the BRN wire being disabled/not bypassing the resistor).  Otherwise it worked as it should, so my assumption is that the solenoid is bad.

Going to order a repro one from Tee-Bird prods tomorrow and put it in when I get back from business travels on thursday.

Thanks again for all of the help!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

DANIEL TINDER
Posted 18 Years Ago
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I bought a new 6V solenoid recently from one of the T-bird suppliers I deal with regularly. It wasn't the cheapest, but I needed to combine an order. It would buzz like crazy when cold-starting. Though It worked every time, the noise bugged me and I replaced it with a cheaper one, which functioned silently. Buzzing is not really a valid excuse for returning it, so it is now my spare since the contacts are not corroded yet.



One of the drawbacks of cheap, throw-away asian products is the lack of consistancy/dependability. We had better get used to it, since Americans will no longer pay a premium for quality parts. The obvious result will be the eventual demise of all high-quality producers.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
rgrove
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Im optimistic - the part is fomoco licensed, and ive always had good luck with tee-bird prods...

going to hopefully install it tonight and see if it works....

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL



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