I'm using a different type of bellcrank for my Fordomatic transmission and I need some help with adjustment. I know that when the carb is at WOT you should still be able to go beyond WOT in order for the kickdown to activate.

So should I adjust the kickdown so that when my pedal is on the floor the carb is at WOT and the kickdown is all the way down?

When should the kickdown start moving? right when you apply pressure to the pedal or at part open throttle? It seems I have more travel in my carbs than in the kickdown; could this be a problem?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Your theory about WOT and kickdown is correct.  However, the kickdown rod also controls transmission control pressure.  Originally, the rod started moving as soon as the throttle is opened.  The farther you open the throttle, the more control pressure there is.  There is a fine line between too much pressure (causes harsh shifts) and too little presure (promotes slipping). 

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks John. The problem I'm having is that It feels like my throttle travels farther than the kickdown. Originally, the throttle would be at WOT and you could still push on the pedal for the kickdown to continue to travel. Now that I have a dual quad progressive setup my kickdown bottoms out BEFORE my throttle does.

So here's what I'm going to do; tell me if it'll work:

I'm going to drill out the clevis at the kickdown rod and put a spring behind it to allow for the extra throttle travel.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

I'm sure you can work something like that out.  I installed a slip joint in my rod on my Ranchero/FMX.  The difference is, the FMX kickdown is kickdown only, throttle pressure is controlled by the vacuum modulator.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Would it be possible to lengthen the arm on the transmission? This would require more travel as you get further from the center of the shaft.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

I changed the pivot point on the kickdown arm by by shortening the throw of the arm. I ground off the spot weld, drilled a new hole and spot welded it back. Previously my throttle linkage would be in passing gear before WOT. Now kickdown comes in with the slide in the linkage as it originally worked. If you look at the picture on the right side cotter pin you will see what I mean. I have a hybrid FMX in the car.

marv

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I never thought of shortening or lengthening the arm to change the travel, what a damn good idea!!!!

I have to play around with it to figure out how long I need to make the arm.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

I installed a slip joint in my rod on my Ranchero/FMX. 

Hey John, was that slip joint something you had to fabricate?? or purchased

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Easy:

Me, purchase?  Not if I can make it.  I took the existing rod, cut it in two along a straight section, welded a piece of tube on one of the pieces that the other piece can slide in.  Then cut a little at a time off the free end until I got the travel I wanted.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Here's an update on my dual quad / kickdown linkage. Thanks to all that helped. I replaced the gas pedal with a floor mount type that helped greatly. I then utilized a Mr. Gasket universal bellcrank for my Fordomatic kickdown. In order to compensate for the extra travel in my throttle linkage I fabricated the slip joint type mechanism that you see in the pic's. So now when I apply the gas pedal the kickdown bottoms out but the slip joint allows the throttle linkage to continue traveling so both carbs reach WOT.  The only thing now is my brakes don't work. I got air in the system some how that I can't bleed out. But that's another thread.

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)