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I think he's including vacuum advance with the initial timing.
Lawrenceville, GA
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Try backing the timing off to about 10 degrees. Too much timing will cause erratic idle. Cupping you hand over the carb will also act as a choke and richen the mixture slightly. Maybe it's too lean at idle.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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hi there i'm still learning "Y speak" but this is a wonderful place to learn 20* btdc should that be nearer to 10*?? the other guys will better advise best of luck stuey
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Yes it was doing this before the carb rebuild. I've rebuilt several carbs before with suuccess, I made sure I took my time with it.. Yes it will increase in idle if I cup my hand over it. I have search high and low for a vacume leak, with everything from brake clean, carb cleaner, starting fluid, hell even used my propane torch, and found no evidence of any leak anywhere. I used fel-pro gaskets on the intake, when I took the intake off I thought I found the problem as all the mating surfaces where painted, so I cleaned them off with a roloc gasket remover pad, and re-installed, still running rough, removed the PCV valve and capped it off with a plug and still running ruff. I am gonna do a tune up (plugs cap and such)this week and see if I can make some progress.. I got my timing set at 20 degrees, btdc. I will post an update as soon as I get back out there, thanks guys for trying to help, I really wanna get this thing right The more I drive it the more I love it, just need to fine tune. it.... Ryan
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Have you checked the basics, compression check for valve problems, or broken valve spring(s)?
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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Irs: Did this problem exist before you took the carb apart? If yes, continue looking, if not that's likely the problem...
Paul
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I'd better correct a mis-statement I made about your setup being original.It is except that you said it had a rubber hose on it.It would originally have had a steel line from the valve to the fitting at the rear of the valley cover.
 
Paul, Boonville,MO
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The PCV setup you have is the correct one for 63 and 64 trucks.PCV was mandated by Uncle Sam on cars and light trucks starting in 63.
Paul, Boonville,MO
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lrs30 (10/24/2010)
I removed it from the canister tube on the rear of the engine, and it was tube attached to the PCV valve was sucking hard ( VACUME) but the engine still seemed to be idling rough. I removed the whole deal and capped it off and still idleing rough (DAMNIT) I checked the cap,button and points and they seemed to be ok but I think I am gonna replace them and the plugs and wires, and go backt thru the whole timing process and see what happens, the wires are older . I guess my hopes of it being the PCV valve idea may be dashed as it did'nt seem to make a difference. Still idling rough, and stalling when stopping...ANY IDEAS?Just shopping for ideas, if you cup your hand just above carb top, without a/cleaner on and lower hand slowly over carb opening, usually if vac leak, the engine will start to increase in revs as it pulls air from leak. This is assuming carb rebuild is not a problem. We await progress. 
 AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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How are your valve cover gaskets? new or baked? - pull the covers and make sure you still have a full set of pushrods. The "new" gas we have tends to make for sticky valves and eats pushrods...... can make things run rough in a big hurry. Bad plug wires are a good guess too....especially if they've gotten pretty cooked over the years. You might pull one at a time and see if one of them makes "no change". Don't do this bare handed OK? The carb rebuild you mentioned - have you done one before?
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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