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New Bonneville Race Truck

Posted By 57FordPU 15 Years Ago
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57FordPU
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Last Active: 3 Years Ago
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Now working to repair the turbo header at the exhaust flex.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/34c650e3-2ff4-498c-86fb-ea06.jpg


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
DryLakesRacer
Posted 5 Years Ago
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Charlie I was concerned when I read your reference to a cast flywheel. They have not been allowed for at least 25 by the SCTA rule book. I have witnessed cars running them and the damage done when they let go. They too were very old. I’m glad you are using a steel one now. Good luck and I love your truck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
57FordPU
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Thanks, Daniel.

We were ready for the October Bonneville, but it rained out.  That's racing.....  This winter has seen a few changes as I wasn't very happy with a lot of the engine and transmission configuration.  I pulled the engine and decided to go back to the T-5 transmission.  I had lost faith and blamed it for losing the 258 motor in 2018.  After sending it to a local trans builder, he said it was in great shape and only had to change one syncro, an O ring and the tailshaft bushing.  Ahead of that, I changed the aluminum flywheel to a new light weight steel unit from John Mummert.  He also sent a new clutch and pressure plate earlier and now the drive line is all changed.

After finding out the transmission wasn't at fault for the instant rev and valve float that crushed the number 4 piston, I turned my attention to the flywheel.  I bounced my theory off of those with more experience (like John Mummert) and all believed it had merit.  The face of the flywheel was very burnt and had some loss of it's steel face inert.  The clutch face of the pressure plate had the same burnt markiings.  After facing the flywheel, it mounted true, but now it was thinner than ever and it gave me concern.  My theory is that the cast aluminum flywheel (now at least 50 years old) may have flexed just enough at the pressure plate mounting points with the clutch fully engaged, to allow the full contact with the clutch disk to diminish.  The instant high rev came at the end of second gear when the engine was at full power and starting to push the wind somewhat.  The clutch disk most likely didn't have enough pressure and contact to keep it from slipping and just freewheeled on it's own.  The old clutch plate did have a significant amount of glazing, but no damage.

the following pictures show how to shoehorn something big into a small opening.  Lifting the rear of the car and lowering the front helped a great deal.  The rear bellhousing mount crossmember is detachable and helped in the process.  The engine is back in and now ready for other changes, especially the turbo headers.  I have had more than one failure with the expansion joints and I will show that change as well as others soon.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/435c9d7e-9cd5-4866-88ba-be9e.jpg


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/f363abe4-01d8-4cbd-b30b-5d22.jpg



http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/3cc474f3-a4ad-4d87-87c5-ede5.jpg




Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
Daniel Jessup
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Great news! Keep up the good work Charlie...

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


57FordPU
Posted 6 Years Ago
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The run-in was a success with no flat cam lobes, no smoke and no metal in the engine oil.

Sorry, for the link, but I am unable to chance the format of the video to post directly here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ns2pqWt6j_s




Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
57FordPU
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Ready to run-in.  Fingers crossed.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/1b9b414c-a525-40b9-a5c9-d4f9.jpg


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
Ted
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Charlie.  Crankshaft windage trays for full skirted blocks are challenging to say the least.  When done by the factory, they tend to sandwich between the block rail and the oil pan.  What you have looks good and is expected to be a major improvement over no tray at all.  Here’s one I did for the Y using a SBF windage tray made by Canton.  It fit with surprisingly very few modifications.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e68d8dd7-5450-4cda-9a8e-cc50.jpg  
 
I used the SBF tray simply due to the SBF and the Y-Block sharing the same bore centers which makes the main bolt spacing from front to rear the same.  The main bolt holes in the Canton tray had to be elongated outwards some but it fit nicely otherwise with only a couple of notches being required on the tray on the side opposite of the oil filter.


Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


DryLakesRacer
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Charlie. I had to dump the Schiefer flywheel on the GMC I ran with Joe Fontana because it was a cast one. EZ to tell by the re-enforcing ribs on the back side. Not allowed by the SCTA any longer. My McGurk was the same. I guess they will make nice clocks now...JD

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
57FordPU
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Thanks Cliff.  Hello Charlie, the windage trey is a poor boys attempt to help in a couple of ways and I have used this unit for about 10 years.  I created a steel framework to tie the main webs via the extruding main studs.  It doesn't connect to the pan rail, so I'm not sure of the effectiveness.  The windage trey is from a Jeep V8 (not sure of the year).  I carved on the stock unit to allow clearances for everything and welded it to the girdle framework.

The old Schiefer aluminum flywheel has seen better days.  It has served me well and after surfacing it at a local machine shop, it is still true.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/6a5534f3-7394-4196-9e0e-d1df.jpg 


Charlie Burns Laton, Ca (South of Fresno)

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BurnsRacing981@gmail.com
Cliff
Posted 6 Years Ago
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Nice, I like watching your work


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