Here are three pictures I found in my files ---- this first one is a heavy duty truck motor and I like this kind of setup for an engine with headers. Could be made pretty slick to span between the valve cover studs.....

This one is very clean and has the passenger car style wire guides.....

And this one could be one of our members outfits - I don't have any idea where I got it

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Here's a couple of views that can give you an the idea. The factory manual also has illustrations. As Eddie said you can order the whole deal from a tbird parts house if you can't come up with some salvage, might as well order the new rubber though. I have to be very careful on mine on the drivers side and make sure they clear. Your headers are different than mine though, but it still works.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

O\K-- This is my new favorite forum officially. You guys were totally correct, that would look quite a bit better! The only problem is now I need to buy new wires :-(

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Steve, I think the bottom photo is of John Gamble's engine in the early stages before the supercharger was installed. I don't know the full story, but the car was up on Ebay a couple of weeks ago.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

It shouldn't be too hot under the headers. Mine are routed under the headers. A quality plug wire should have no issues at all with the heat. I made some brackets that use the stock mounting locations but allow the wires to be replaced much more easily. The stock brackets are a pain to install on an engine stand. It must be extremely difficult when the motor is mounted.

Here's one pic that shows them. It also shows my excellent photoshop skills. It really looks like I'm working on it! Hehe.



I also have brackets on the side mounting bosses that support the front two wires of each bank.

One of the side brackets can be seen here between the front header tubes.




Lawrenceville, GA

Hey Charlie, i like those better than stock. Any chance you'd want to make up some more?

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

That is something I would like to produce. I have the hand drawings somewhere. I'll find them, digitize them and see what CNC production will cost. I should be able to get a decent deal for CNC machining. In any case, I can make another set.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie, those brackets are really cool. I think that you've got a winner there! I might just take a set myself.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

Charlie,



I'd take a set too-- if you were up for it. Which master cylinder did you use? The outlet lines on mine come out from the passenger side, which puts them dead over the valves. I used ECI's adapter and a later mustang MC I think. I like yours much better.

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Cool! There's interest. I'll start figuring tonight.



Greg,

The master cylinder is a '68 corvette unit. I made an adapter plate to mount it. The GM bolt pattern is about 1/4" wider than the ford. I have a front disc setup from ECI. They recommended a Lincoln master cylinder which is what I used for several years. There was barely enough room to remove the stamped steel valve cover so I called them up to see what would work and had the ports on the drivers side. The vette is what was recommend. Both are 1 1/8" bore which tends to be too big for a manual brake system but I have no problems locking them up and I am not a big guy. After making the plate and acquiring the vette cylinder, I came across a Ford mc with a 1 1/16" bore, ports on the drivers side. I think it was for an F150 but I'm not sure. It will probably work just as well.

The adapter is not absolutely necessary. The GM mc bolt holes can be slotted to fit. I made the plate to simplify replacement should the mc break in the middle of nowhere.

First, I'd say to give ECI a call and see what they have to say.


Lawrenceville, GA