I've had a NOS valley pan for my 312 y-block sitting on the shelf and I figured now would be a good time to replace my leaky old one along with new gasket, etc.

I took off the hoses, lines, linkage, intake manifold, etc., and have freed up the old valley pan. I'm pretty sure I can get it out of there without much worry much because I have a new valley pan & gasket in hand. But in looking at this more...and here is the question...how can I get the new one in without taking off one or both of the heads? I don't want to tackle that. So, is it advisable to grind away some steel on the pan...? 

I don't want to do anything before I get some advice from you guys here.

Also...the valley pan gasket is a pretty thick black rubbery sort. Should it go on as is, or will I need any sealant, and if so what's the best type? How difficult is it to apply that and then install the pan, with the heads on, and not make a slobbery mess of things?

As always, any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The valley pan WILL go on with the heads in place.As far as avoiding leaks I drilled and tapped for 6-8 machine screws around the perimeter.The block drills easily with a quality drill bit and taps easy too.These pans leak because of overtighting pulls the edges up from the block.The torque specs on the retainer bolts in the centre are only  about 2-3 ft pounds.Just snug.

  

Joey:

On the bottom of the valley pan is a vertical baffle.  If you notch the baffle about 1/4 inch on the top inch or so of the baffle, one side, it will allow you to more easily slip the cover in place with the heads on.  Usually the baffle keeps you from sliding the cover far enough to one side to get the cover under the intake flange on the other side.  Also, when installing the intake, before you bolt it down, make sure it clears the front valley bolt head.  If that bolt sticks up too far, the intake hits it.  Many intake front ears have been broken off by tightening the manifold while it is sitting on that bolt head.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I have been able to put the valley pan back on without removing the heads. You just have to move it around a bit.



In the past, I have shaved about a 3/8 on an inch off the sides of the baffle. That helps, although the last time I didn;t have to do that.



Check the gaskets under the bolts that hold the valley pan to the block. Frequently, these are very thick. Cut about 1/2 off to make them thinner. This also prevents the intake from hitting the bolts.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Upon advice gotten here, I cut about a 1/4" off the top inch or so of the valley pan. Did a dry fit and it slid right into place. Put some gasket sealant/adhesive on the surfaces and installed it, snugging up the two bolts. No sweat.

Before and after pics below. I think now as long as I have the manifold out, I'll touch up a few areas with fresh paint. Thank you gentlemen for your input.

 

Joey

Use some thread sealant on the studs and bolts for the intake.


Lawrenceville, GA

Good tip--thanks. I will.

Looks good.I assume you are going to a PCV valve with that pan.A suggestion.You might want to glue the rubber grommet to the pan before you go further.The grommet tends to pull out when you remove the PCV valve and its a fight to get it back in because its an awkward spot with the intake on.This suggestion worked for me.Are you going to block the heat crossover passgae from the head into the intake?Keeps heat off the carb and your intake wont burn the paint off.OOPS!I just realized you have a T-Bird.I guess you are going to hook up the draft tube to that opening in the pan not a PCV.

  

Hi Mark. You were right the first time--PCV valve which vents into the carb port, and the oil fill cap is also vented. Got rid of the old road draft tube. My grommet for the PCV is a pretty decent fit, the rubber is still good, and the little assembly is held in place with a philips screw.

Anyway, I was thinking about blocking off the heat crossover passages. The paint is burnt off the underside of the manifold. But I do drive the car in cold weather, long as it's not snowy, it's cold here for a lot of the year. I would like to hear more input on that. I have already bought intake gaskets from Mac's, they're just the regular ones for a TBird without any blocking part. I guess I could cut some thin gauge steel so it doesn't interfere with the gasket fit. But I wonder if I should be doing it at all...any ideas...?

joey

I blocked off my heat passages with thin tin when I swapped over the the B type manifold on mine. No more paint discoloration. But I also am running an electric choke.

Brian - 56 T-Bird

Woodinville WA