I am taking the 57 Tbird 312 out to repair a leaking torque converter and install a set of aluminum heads, Sanderson headers,etc. The engine is rebuilt ( 30 over) and is in good shape. I am thinking of installing one of Mummert's cams, possibly the 270, while I have the chance to do it on an engine stand. I can't see a way to groove the oil passage under the cam bearing with the engine still having the rotating assembly in it. Plus removing and installing new cam bearings is something I have left to the machine shop in the past. I didn't have the rebuild done, the previous owner did. I have the build sheet but don't have info regarding any oiling modifications that might have been done. Any ideas or should I just leave it be? This is for the street, not a racer.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Hi Mark,

I would speak with John Mummert about this if you are using one of his cams.  He may be willing to add a little extra depth and width to the cam groove which would increase oil flow to the rockers if that is your concern. However I would say that if the center cam bearing is OK then the stock groove is pretty much OK.  But if the center bearing is worn some than the spring pressure will hold the cam to the bottom of the bearing which allows the oil to leak out the top of the bearing instead of entering the risers to the head.

At one time I had a groove cut in a '55 cam directly over the oil holes in the center cam bearing and the motor oiled fine.  The oil just ignored the holes and went in the groove all the time. This was on a newly rebuilt engine with brand new bearings.

Doug T

The Highlands, Louisville, Ky.

Doug, i have been doing that for years with no problems and am happy with the results. regards bill.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Mark; first question, is their evidence of lack of top oil currently? If not & the cam bearings look good, why tamper with it?

Paul

The oil to the heads has been good since I have had the car. No sludge or dirty oil in the rockers, springs, oil drains, etc. I would like to leave it untampered with if the bearings look well enough when the cam comes out. I will check the for a groove on the cam that may have been done on the last rebuild. The build sheet lists a new cam and bearings were installed.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

FWIW, I just acquired a set of camshaft bearings from Schumman's that has the "360 degree" label on the Durabond box. The difference from stock bearings is that there is an oil groove on the outside of the cam bearing diameter, so you have a 360 degree groove all the way around the journal, whether or not you have a cross drilled or grooved cam...maybe that will help you since you can't really cut into your block while the assembly is still in there? I would think that more of us could "safely" do the cam bearing install with bearings like these...

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Thanks to a tip from one of you, I picked up a set of the new improved Clevite cam bearings, SH-559S .  They have some quite long slots, with the longest to be installed to the right side (DS?).  They are supposed to supply equal oil to the heads under all operating conditions.

Mike, located in the Siskiyou mountains, Southern, OR 292 powered 1946 Ford 1/2 ton, '62 Mercury Meteor, '55 Country Squire (parting out), '64 Falcon, '54 Ford 600 tractor.