No as much as I want to go to Columbus, I want be able to make it this year. Just droped 30 grand on my new shop and the wife said that I have spent my allowance for the next ten years. Really my son is in Iraq now and we are expecting him home in early Sep, I sure want to be here in case they get in a little early. Maybe I will have something finished or at least driveable for the trip up next year.

Glen Henderson



Freedom is not Free

Letohatchee, AL

I had one of those holley 3 port non return style regulator, its a complete piece of junk. brought the mallory return style regulator, stable pressure all the time. but the mallory is like 140 dollars

Well, you're the second to have said that. I think I've ruled out the regulator. I'm getting close to trying this new system. I'm going to have gauges installed at the outlet of the pump, just before the regulator, and just after the regulator for testing purposes. Once the problem is absolutely discovered I'll just have the gauge after the regulator. I still have to make my fuel line brackets, pump mounting bracket, filler plate for the top of the fuel cell, run the wires, and modify the chevy filler pipe.

Those TV shows make everything look so easy. At least I enjoy it.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie,

Nice fabrication on that filler!  Where did you find that tank, & how many gals?

How big is the Mustang Tank? 

Kevin

Actually, I can't take credit for the filler.  A friend of mine is doing most of that.  I did a few  welds and some grinding on that part.  He's started with the body filler, getting everything smooth.  I haven't any experience with body work.  He has a little.  Everything else is me, though.

The fuel cell is a 16 gallon unit that I got from summit racing.  It is 2 gallons less than stock.  That shouldn't be a problem as long as I achieve my goal of 16mpg city and 25mpg highway.

The mustang tank used in that article is available in two sizes.  I think 18 and 22 gallon.  It's in the tech articles section of the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum.

Lawrenceville, GA

Alright.  I have everything but the filler in place.   I put about 4 gallons of gas in the tank to see how things are with the new system.

I have one pressure gauge at the pump outlet, one before the regulator and one after the regulator.

I have 5psi at the pump outlet.  This is lower than it should be.  The wires are temproarily j-rigged so that may contribute to the low pressure.  However, 5psi at the pump outlet remained constant throughout the test.

The gauges at the regulator read 5psi to start and slowly dropped off.  I turned the motor off before it was able to reach 0 but it was getting there rather quickly.

If the pump remained at a constant pressure then it can't be the problem.  I think there is a problem with the pump because it is rated to put out 7psi and 5psi is the highest reading.  Again, this could be to do with the temporary j-rigged wire.

How do these non-return regulators work?  Is it normal that the pressure drops before them as well?  The two gauges at the regulator seem to indicate a pressure loss at the same rate.  This result corresponds with a previous test.

It seams to be heat related.  I can let things cool for a while, start it up and the pressure will be back up.

Lawrenceville, GA

Did you try taking the regulator out of the system and checking fuel pressure? If its the regulator that would show it right away. Have you replaced the rubber lines? Sometimes a small "flap" of rubber gets loose in the line and will act as a valve when pressure comes up shutting off the fuel. Just a couple of ideas. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I just bypassed the regulator.  Still the same problem.  Pump steady at 5psi.  Pressure toward carb end starts at 5psi and falls.  There is about 1.5 ft of flexible line.  Everything else is hard line.  It's all new.  I made sure nothing was in them before installing them.

If the pump is faulty can it have a good reading immeditely after the outlet but drop off significantly 10-15 feet up the line?

I'm running out of ideas.  It's starting to look like this truck ain't going to be at Columbus. 

Lawrenceville, GA

Try a new piece of rubber hose! That little flap I mentioned is sometimes a defect. Blow through everything both directions. Try blowing on the ends of the rubber line with your mouth (or other low pressure source). Sometimes the higher pressure forces past the blockage. There has to be some kind of obstruction in the line. The lines are not close to a heat source are they? 6-8 inches away should be good. Hope this helps. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Did the problem exist before you started changing lines? That should be a tip off if it didn't. New parts are not always good! You could also try mounting the regulator next to the pump and take readings on both sides of it. That would further isolate the source of the problem. Does the engine quit at 0 pressure or keep running ok? Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire