The damper on my 57 went bad.  I had no trouble removing it, but I can't get the replacement on.  I have removed it a couple of times to check the keyway alignment. and it seems to be properly lined up.  I have cleaned and lightly lubed everything and am using a longer bolt so I had more contact area to engage the threads in the crank.  I can get the bolt started, but afrter tighting it as much as I can with hand tools, the damper isn't moving.  I was turning the engine over, so I blocked the damper so I could tighten the bolt more.  I have tried to pound it with a mallet with a piece of wood on the damper, and that didn't do anything. Should I be able to move the woodruff (sp?) key with my finger?  I have an extra 312 being rebuilt,  but it won't be ready for Columbus.  I was going to put the new engine in. and then rebuild the original 312.  Some things I have heard about doing are, putting the damper in a freezer or heating it up.  Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul J. - '57 E Code

First off, stop hammering the damper. Doing that will damage the crankshaft main thrust bearing. Are you using the Y block damper removal and installation tools? If you are just using a bolt, it is probably bottoming out in the crank bolt hole. Is the woodruff key damaged. distorted or the wrong size? Is your new damper new or a rebuilt unit? Double check everything and look for damage to the crank surface or alignment key and keyway in the damper. Is the damper going through the timing cover seal into the timing cover? If the alignment key is loose, make sure it is seated in the crankshaft and tight. It may cause binding.


57 Black Tbird 312/auto

We ran into the same problem on a customers car a few weeks ago. Customer brought in a damper to replace the one on the car that had slipped the outer ring. Ended up honing it out a bit before it would go on.

Dan      Kingman Az.      86409

I had the same problem. I cleaned the shaft with light emery cloth and the inside of the damper also. It went together well.

I’ll suggest measuring the damper hole and the crankshaft and then honing the damper for a 0.0005-0.0009” interference fit.  Sounds like the damper hole is on the small side.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

When I was much younger and had little acess to tools I bumped the dampner on my 272 with a plastic hammer several times. It fell off in my hand along with the snout of the crank.

My dad told me not to tap on the crank, I found out why. Hope you have not damaged yours.

Don W

Don't make the mistake I did by measuring the damper ID with a defective chinese snap gauge, and then give the wrong spec. to the machinist. Just use a quality/calibrated mic to measure the crank snout, and let the machinist do the rest.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Thanks for the responses. I am having the new/old damper machined the same as the one that went bad.

Paul J. - '57 E Code