I know this is a broad question and open to lots of variables but I'm looking for an idea as to what it would cost to build a reliable Y-block based on a 292 block? It will have a multi-carbed intake along with some other dress up items like an a aluminum timing cover, V/C's, valley pan and it will have either headers or the newer style of rams horn exhaust manifolds. It will be backed by a toploader 4 speed or maybe a later model 5 speed. I'm starting from scratch and I've got several motors to go look at for the base engine.  I'm not wanting a race or hi-performance engine but I would like it to have a nice sound with maybe a little bit of nastiness to it. Thanks for any help!!

Go to " ford-y-block. com" and call John Mummert; guru of the Y block. He has every option and combo, equipment wise and price wise you might need. Great customer service, too.

2K-2.5K is what I would figure in final running configuration.

Oldmics

Add $1K - $1.5K or more just for a working tri-power & manifold, which is probably your biggest adder. Dual quads will cost about the same. That's the main reason I elected for a single 4V.



Or maybe I misunderstand... do you already have the tri-power?

I'm currently building a 312.  My machine shop hot tanked the block and heads, magnafluxed them, installed cam bearings and freeze plugs, ground my valve seats, milled the heads and assembled them, bored the block .060 over and sleeved one cylinder for $819.00 which I think was really a good price.  All the engine assembly was left up to me.  My master overhaul kit that came with an Isky E-4 cam, gasket set and every moving part in the engine except the crankshaft and rods and cost me $1200.  With chrome dress up items, headers, intake and three carburetor set up could easily put you well over another $1000.  Like you say, there are a lot of variables here but I would guess you could easily spend $3000 plus on this rebuild.  Good luck       

buddy

Hey Buddy1 I see you had the valve seats ground.Did you also install hardened seats at least on the exhaust valves?

  

Buddy, gotta agree with you on 3K plus. You guys are more fortunate than you think with machining costs than here, as theres few shops left. Just finishing boat engine here, clean block, helicoil various holes, bore .060", hone, deck, fit cam brgs, grind crank, resize 2 rods, o/haul heads and a few odd things was $1451.00 AU which is about same as USD. Parts inc 16 valves.oil pump,cam and lifter redress, pistons/rings, brgs, gasket set, t/chain, nuts bolts plugs etc  was approx $1700. = $3151.00.

I might add, guy brought the old 17' timber boat then received the dismantled engine months later. it arrived in buckets boxes and basicly ressembled junk pile, the drive snout on crank end had been welded to it! which meant fitting cam from the rear into captive timing gear. Upon assembly i have spent week and half looking through my stuff for all the missing and servicable parts to complete it and still will not be completed till he eventually figures how to hook it up to the boat related fittings. The holley carb had been in weather along with everthing else so that was rebuild and clean also!  Well, i,m off to nut/bolt shop with my list so i can finish it up today.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Yes I forgot to mention in my previous post that my machine shop did install all new hardened exhaust valve seats and ground all the valves and intake seats.  I didn't need the valves ground because they came in the kit along with valve guides which I didn't need.  It also came with new 1.54 rocker arms, push rods, valve springs and keepers.  He also polished my crank.  The master overhaul kit was very complete, but I did have problems with the compression rings being packaged with the wrong size and the intake valves having the keeper groves machined too high on the valve stem.  My parts supplier shipped out the correct replacement parts and I got them next day UPS.  Here in southwest Virginia labor rates are much cheaper.  The same machine work in northern Virginia would probably cost almost twice as much.  This morning I found myself with another delay when I noticed that my harmonic balancer/damper had slipped about three inches on the rubber and the timing marks won't line up when No. 1 is at TDC so I had to order a new one and it won't be in until mid next week.  AussieBill, it sound like you have a very challenging job with your rebuild.  I've been reading where some 312 marine engines ran backward.  Never knew that!     

buddy

ive got about $3700.00 in mine . 56   272   2 bbl all stock except for sanderson headers . It needed everything