water should flow out the lower hose connection and never back up out the fill . if it does , its partiallyor fully plugged . period .

one other thing , with the engine hot and not running , you can feel the fins of the radiator . if you feel any cold areas , this would indicate a partially plugged radiator core .

Just to clarify what Steve Metzger wrote, load-a-matic is the distributor Style not a transmission. In case anyone is confused

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Sounds like you need a proper pressure flush but try all as suggested, also they maybe one other thing . It seemed to be a habit that simply knocking the freeze plugs into the block when replacing with a new one.. mmm cant be good.. I found one behind the one I replaced, a few of these floating in the block wouldn't be good. Anyone else found this?



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Big - this is the "Load-O-Matic" type distributor with the lid off.

Lower center you can see the operating rod of the vacuum pot just between the two point plate springs. It operates on vacuum developed by air flowing through the carb venturi - adds advance as the airflow increases. Test it by opening the dizzy cap and applying vacuum to the pot to watch it move - or not.

The carb vacuum line should show an increasing amount of vacuum as the revs go up - but you may have to have it on the road to test. The vacuum in this line doesn't show manifold vacuum - it operates on the "pitot tube" principle of air flowing past an orfice.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Oops , yes my car has a vacuum pot on the distributor.  Thanks for the education!

Well if the radiator should be able to flow enough water to never back up out the filler then the radiator is definitly plugged up.  Becuase if opened my spigot all the way when I was doing my expirement, water would start to overflow out of the radiator filler.  It just couldn't handle the hose flow on full blast (I don't have very strong water pressure).

Bill, I hope you're right that I just need a "flush" or as Talkwrench says a "pressure flush".  Are these services that any radiator shop will offer?  Can anyone describe what is involved in these services?  I'm always nervous that I'm going to pay $100 to have someone else run a hose through my radiator when I can do that at home for free.  Do they use chemicals and a special machine or something?

Also Bill you say "flush the block".  I know I asked about this before, but what is involved in the flushing the block?  Just stick  hose in the thermostat housing opening and run water through the engine and let it drain out the bottom (with the engine not running of course)?  Do I use vinegar or something else?

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

No worries on the education we prefer to think you are joining an elite group here

I think the full flow hose through the radiator comment - refers to an open lower rad hose - not the little spigot. Mine won't do that either.

The vinegar treatment - will do wonders for both the block and the radiator - just be persistent.

Many of these outfits (old orignal stockers) have suffered from the retarded ignition - I'd still recommend setting up the advance at idle to see if it does you any good (while circulating the vinegar).

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Thanks Green!

When I referred to the "spigot" being fully open I meant the spigot on the side of my house controlling the water flow through my garden hose.    The lower radiator hose was connected to engine and the engine was running, the little spigot on my radiator was closed.  The upper radiator hose was clamped to shop-vac extension and was pouring into a bucket in front of my car (see pic below).  I plugged the upper hose connection on the radiator by zip-tying a blue latex glove over the connection.  How about in that situation?  Do you think the cooling system should've been able to take in the full flow of water from my garden hose?

No, it wasn't raining.  The hose water that would overflow the radiator filler was spilling onto the fan and flinging all over!

Nate - Madison, Wisconsin

 

56 Ford Customline Sedan

 

I'm not sure how the system works on your sedan - but there may be a valve in the exhaust that forces heat to cross over under the carburetor in the intake - as opposed to the cross pipe at the front of the engine. When the valves get bound up - and they don't allow the front passage to open and work - it cooks the top of the engine pretty good.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Nate, i was actually referring to sending rad out and have the lower tank removed , dipped in chemicals, usually rods are pushed through each core to remove stubborn debris, tank refitted and pressure tested, it is a normal procedure. While thats away, flush the block with hose through all openings in turn. At least you know the rad is unblocked and block is free as possible from junk and system should work efficiently.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia