My original generator is not charging the battery and I plan on adding ac next year. I have been searching the internet for an alternator and mounting bracket that would bolt in on the yblock. I have a big problem - most alternators with mounting brackets use the bolt hole location where the oil dip stick housing is attached to the block as the pivot point for the alternator. This bolt hole location has a sheared bolt stuck in it and will not free up. There is no part of the sheared bolt that is exposed (sticks out of the bolt hole), infact it is somewhat recessed. To drill it out probably would require the motor being pulled - there is not much room/clearance to manuever to get at it and be very costly to do so.

Is there an alternator bracket for the 292 yblock that would bolt in and not use this bolt hole location to anchor the alternator? I saw one that I thought would work, however another site (concours parts) listed the same or very similar bracket for use without ac and as I stated above, I plan to add ac. The site listed a bracket to use with ac and uses the bolt hole location with the sheared bolt in it!  

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

Your ac kit will probably come with brackets that will also allow mounting the alternator and if that's the case, spend as little as possible on a bracket.



I ran this for quite a while with no issues. Easy to do with a trip to the hardware store and cheap!



http://www.ranchwagon.com/tech/alt/alt.htm



You may need that hole for the AC. Find out. You can probably get a drill in there if you remove the radiator, but if not you can remove the head. Engine removal should not be necessary.


Lawrenceville, GA

If you have acess to a welder, take an oversize nut and weld down through the middle of it, use a lot of heat to penetrate the broken stud, the weld will not stick to the cast head/block and you can normally screw the broken piece out of there. the welding heats it and frees it at the same time.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Further to what Billy recommends. If the stud is hard to get at & broken below the surface, it may work better to use a suitable washer for the first weld & then weld on a nut. If using an electrode welder by chance, preferably use a low hydrogen electrode, which may be more compatible with the stud alloy. Allow to kool completely before attempting removal..

Paul

I used a kit from L.D.Becker and his alternators use all the original Y brackets. I am impressed with the quality and the customer service was excellent!

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Follow up to Charlie's post. ranchwagon.com is no longer there. But you can find a copy of the article at http://web.archive.org/web/20080513185243/http://www.ranchwagon.com/Tech/alt/alt.htm.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

Rob ,

Did you buy just the alt bracket ??? Or does it mount both Alt & P/S .I think I saw the  combo bracket last night  on the net for around $100.Seems cheap & a lot easier then trying to make one .

Lon

yblocksdownunder

My bracket kit came from vintage air, uses the

gm alternator and sanden 508 compressor. I think it was around 100$ I'll look tomorrow if it uses that bolt hole, I did have to bend the dipstick more upward.





thanks, Mark