By the way we did have to do some slight custom tubbing on the rear fender wells for the tires to clear. Not bad just a little custom work. Was wondering if anyone has a flat black truck here and if they have a pic?

Well we have the wheels on and the shackles done. I am liking the DUBS. I think it's time for a new coat of black paint?

I'm curious to hear if those tig welded cross member welds fatigue over time, or something. I think the original frame was designed to give or flex in those areas and you have obviously strengthened them. This is the reason those old trucks moved around so much on and old crooked road as Chuck has mentioned earlier. This is fun to watch!

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Not too worried about the steering I have been driving this truck for years with 12.5 in wide mud tires so I am used to eating my Wheaties before i drive my truck. The tires should just clear inner fender well on the rear but we are prepared so modify it slightly if we have to. We wanted to go with the 305 so we could vet as much traction as possible.

You sure those 305s are going to work? On a 2 wheel drive, with the backspace perfect, you'd probably have about 1/4" clearance between the body and frame. It can't be much different on a 4wd. The steering will be much more difficult, too.


Lawrenceville, GA

Ladder bars look great! And is is wild the way the spring mount worked for them. High or low the truck is definately going to turn some heads. Trucks have a bigger problem with torsional twist due to the ladder type frame. Over the years they have gone to x members and kickup's to strengthen them. It you have ever driven slowly over really bumpy terrain and watched the area between the bed and cab you know how much they can move around. I would still suggest welding all of the current cross members to the frame and adding a X member. Sorry for harping on the subject but I've seen some bad things happen when frames break under pressure. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Well we have made some progress on our lowering project. We decided to scrap the mud tires and ordered some new wheels and tires. Some may like it some may not but we think it's gonna look sick. Got some 20" wheels with 305/50R20 tires. Alot stickier and will handle better. They should look really nice I think we got an all black 5 spoke wheel. We also made some progress on the lowering. I removed the rear stock 4" blocks from the rear and Chris is build new front shackles to lower the front. It helps and a few different ways by lowering the truck it will handle better at higher speeds and it also improved my drive shaft angles a lot. We also installed some ProComp ladder bars today, here are some pics of the progress. The wheels will be here tomorow and I cannot wait.



Chris is tig welding the riveted cross members.



The ladder bars turned out realy nice.



We were able to use the old front leaf spring shackle mount for the front of the ladder bars. It worked so well it was scary.



Chris is starting on the new front leaf spring shackles.



The rear brackets mount inbetween the leaf spring and axle. You can see that we removed the stock 4in block.



Drivers side ladder bar. I really think these will improve the handling and frame torque up.

Check the frame for torsional twist. I'd also search the web for competition trucks to see what they have done to strengthen the chassis. Torquing up on mud or dirt is a lot different than pavement. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I already installed the rear loop and need one for the front yet. The frame is in great condition but I do believe it is in need of support. Once we installed the rear loop and went on the road and torqued it up the rear diff moved so far to one side that the drive shaft actually struck the loop. I would say that the diff at least had to move 3-4 in to the side. Once we lower the truck we will build the traction bars and build some sort of track bar that goes from the frame to the rear diffto support it side to side.

As someone already mentioned you are going to find some weak links when you hammer on this setup. I would recommend a drive shaft safety loop on both shafts and make sure the differentials are in good service. Check all the U-Joints and other connections. I remember reading somewhere that the pickup frames are mostly ladder frames and are somewhat flexible. Along with the ladder bars and welding all the existing cross members you might build an X member to tighten it up. Thanks for sharing your project I think it is exciting. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire