Thanks everyone for this and all the other discussions. I hope to soon begin my first ever engine rebuild, and learning as much as I can from you all is the most important first step.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

John:

We're back to the cost factor again, but if you are going to spring for a new set of pistons, why not get oversize pistons and bore the block and eliminate all doubt about pits and wear?  See, one thing leads to another, and each is just a few dollars more, but when you reach the bottom line you have spent more than you wanted.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Real easy, the sealed power are made recently with modern techniques, materials and costs, the old badger pistions were made in the 60,s and are old stock, i use the both with good results, but its not a matter of compareing $ to $ differences, there is usually a genuine reason, you should not start queriyng manufacturers about why their costs are different, that is just a fact of life, some may have lower operating costs, staff, better buying rates etc. Shop around to your budget but dont forget theres more expeirence here than you will ever have and people are trying to help based on that. good luck.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

The reason I'm on the forum is that I know there is lots of experience here.

When I ask a retailer about a product I'm looking for info from them as to what exactly they are selling and why I should buy their product.  There is very little info at these sites on some items so you don't really know what they are selling, where it is made, NOS or New reproduction, etc...

John

Hi John

I have been following your posts and I think you are going OK

I have just done a similar rebuild on my 272 which had been sitting for 40 years and it didn't want to turn over.

I eventually got the motor apart and I honed the bores and re-used the standard bore pistons.

Sure there are still a few marks in a couple of bores but I'm not going to race it and I bet it still will have better compression than one that was maybe rebuilt a few years back.

Reluctantly I did have to get the crank ground as it had some marks that wouldn't come out.

Like you, the rings were stuck in the pistons, but this was a good thing as it showed that the grooves weren't worn.

It doesn't matter if you break the old rings getting them out, just don't damage the grooves.

I let my pistons soak in diesel for a couple of weeks and it loosened them up OK.

You don't have to spend a fortune if you aren't building a race/show car.

Go for it mate

Gary - 1958 Star Customline and 1940 Ford Deluxe Hotrod

John: I might be wrong, but B5A-6108 may be a 272 piston?.. Have you examined the #4 piston closely? Maybe it's o.k.. And if the pitting on the cylinder walls is minute & within tolearance, reuse the pistons.

Paul

John- Get a hold of Vern Schumann (sp?) He's an extremely knowledgeable and patient guy. I had many of the same questions as you, and not only did he answer them, but educated (not lectured or preached) me on the stuff as well. He's more than happy to help you decide what you'd be comfortable with, and explain what you'd need, and sell it to you at a good price. He's not an internet kind of guy, but someone who successfully raced Y's back in the day. Good Luck /Duck

BOO- YA!!!

the worst waste of money is putting new pistons in old worn cylinders.you would be surprised how many do it.

John

Welcome to the world of Y-BLOCK. The people here are usually very helpful and will give you good advice.

I for one, have done all the things you have been told not to do ( banged the pistons out, then re-ringed the honed cylinder walls using iron rings per OLD SCHOOL ) on both 302 Fords and 350 Chevys and for me it worked fine and was CHEAP. If I had the money sure I would have bought new pistons etc etc but for me at the time it did not make sense.

Your plan to get it back in driver status and back on the road sounds good to me. You can always redue the re-build at some future date. Pete

Thanks for all the helpful replies.  I decided to take it for machining and let them measure. I don't have loads of experience on the crank/bearings so I'm going to take that in too.  It will cost more but I know it will run.

My original plan was to do it inexpensively and if I needed to to re-do it later.  This was one of the easiest engine pulls I've ever done...

The piston I mentioned before is for  3.75 bore 292.  It seems to be available in std, .020 - .060

John