I am in the process of putting a T5 in my 56 Ford F100 with a 272. I have a three speed bellhousing: TAAM 7505-B. I have an '89 Mustang T5 and I am going to put the S10 top cover and extension housing on it for a better (for me) shifter position. I plan on sending the bellhousing to have Mummert modify it for the T5.

I was wondering why I could not use the original (56 F100) long style 11" diaphragm with an 11" clutch disc for a Mustang, The original type (1956)  T/O bearing with a sleeve made to match the outside diameter of the old 3 speeds bearing retainer but have an interference fit to the T5s bearing retainer. And finally, A custom or modified pilot bearing. I used to do transmission work for a living for several years and I cannot think of why this would not work. Has anyone ever tried this? Basically the only difference is the clutch disc. With the same press plate and T/O bearing and the same bellhousing the clutch geometry would be pretty much the same. Any thoughts?

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

You will need to make sure the replacement disk is as thick as original. If the T5 you have has the heavy duty bearing retainer, you will not be able to do what you propose. The retainer is too thick and takes up all clearance for the throwout bearing.



If it is a V8 T5, the stock pilot bearing will work.



Lawrenceville, GA

Regarding the old T-98 4 speed and the original 3 speed.....does anyone know if they take the same 11" clutch and press plate? Reason why I ask is my truck was originally a 4 speed and I had purchased a new clutch, press plate and T/O bearing. So if I am able to do this I'll only have to get a clutch disc.

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

fiftysix,

as Charlie mentioned there may not be sufficient space for the clutch to be fullyengaged when you let the

pedal out. I did the same project on my  55 f100 with a 292. The clutch would not fully engage. I took the

retainer off and machined about all I thought the aluminum retrainer could stand.(thinned the flange

this helped, but it still slipped with much throttle.

finally I machined a whole new retainer out of a billet of 4140 steel making the flange still thinner. No problems

after that.

55f100

West Monroe,La.

I have the light duty bearing retainer. There is quite a lot of space between the original T/O bearing and the bearing retainer. My thought is I would basically duplicate what was originally there except the clutch splines would be for the T5. Are you talking about the rearmost part of the bearing retainer? So when the clutch is out it will not retract all the way back to clamp down properly?

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

I re-read what both of you wrote and I think I understand what you guys are telling me now. I'll check and see if my bearing retainer is thin enough to work.....

"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good."



"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

You can see a picture of it here:



http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic15164-4-6.aspx


Lawrenceville, GA

You're right, charlie the "steel" retainers I could find were aluminum except for the tube

the throwout bearing slides on. The shoulder around the steel tube has to be pretty long to

support the tube. I machined away as much as I dared, but it still wasn't enough, so not

being able to find one made entirely of steel,I machined one. If one could find such a

retainer fiftysixes idea will work.

55f100

West Monroe,La.