Charlie,

I have a garage, a mig welder, and plenty of projects. When are you coming up? Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Nice work Charlie! I agree with you about the "bolts right in!" comment! It seems like I always have run into that very thing on every project I've done.
Provided you did your usual good job of welding on the rear housing, that should work perfectly.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

To catch up on this thread, I did make it to a test an tune:

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic75263.aspx?

Over the past week, I built some shock relocation brackets. I thought it would be a good idea since I had lowered the rear to restore the stock geometry but I also noticed another problem while I was getting measurements. The axle is from a '68, installed before I bought the truck. Everything I've read says "it just bolts right in!" and like most things that assert that, it technically does not, though it was in there and functioning well enough for me since I've owned the truck. The problem is the location of the shock brackets on the axle housing. They are about 6" wider than the stock width of 26" which puts the axle mount right under the frame rail and causes the shock to hit the frame. So I designed them to address this issue as well. In addition to lowering the mounting point about 2.5", they move the mounting point about 2" toward the center of the axle.

I don't know if this will do anything for traction and that's not why I did it but it must allow the shock to do it's job better if the angles are more like original and that is a good thing.



Left, before. Right, After. The camera angles don't match, I know, but you can see the change of mounting position in relation to the axle tube.



Before:



After:



It's starting to look like there is something going on under there.



Now I have to paint them but I might mount them first and go for a test drive just to see if it seems any different, good or bad. The shock do need to be replaced, though but I can get new shocks ready while the pain dries.


Lawrenceville, GA

I'll be there. I'm probably not bringing the truck this year. I need to get the wiring project finished. And I really want to get my low speed cooling issue resolved before I go on another long trip. I almost had to pull off the road in Cincinnati because of the traffic. I can leave early to avoid that traffic but then I have to deal with Atlanta traffic. Given the choice, I'll take Cincinnati any day. The driver side axle seal is leaking. I want to put that repair off until I have another gear to put in so I can handle it all at once. I'm certainly not making that drive with a leaking axle seal. In a month or so, I think it will be the first full year without anything breaking - I don't count the seal, it's probably time.



But I do hope to make it to Atlanta Dragway at least once before the end of the year to see if I can beat the 15.95 from last year. With the elimination of wheel hop alone, I think I can achieve that. It's a lot easier to control the traction that is available now.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie: My homemade  "Cal-Tracs" really work....you leave "Hard" with no axle hop and

       the truck goes straight....See ya in Columbus...I hope

                                                 Bill

Bill

Pelham,Al

Step 3, traction bars.







The hangers required some clearancing.











Other than that, it was pretty painless.







The test drive was great. My biggest concern was that the 2 piece aluminum/steel bushings would make the ride more harsh. It actually feels more cushy, like a truck that had a Cadillac in it's lineage 40 generations ago, but don't get me wrong, it still feels very much like a 50 year old truck.

The roads are wet so I am not really able to get a sense of better traction. It actually seems easier to spin than it has been in the past in similar conditions(wet roads), but there is no hop. It's like butter when the tires (or tire, no posi yet) spin and that is definitely a good thing. We'll see what it's like on a dry day.



So step 4 will be some form of positraction but that's after I track down some shorter gearing from the junkyard to see if something like a 4.11 works better overall. Once I find a gear that's a good compromise, then I address the rear. That probably will not happen this year. Gotta finish other projects.



And after that, I think that's about all I can do without significant changes to the frame and suspension. Oh, well I guess I could get some slicks. And then that's all I can do.



Lawrenceville, GA

It doesn't look like you've made many so far!

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Well, keep watching. You can learn from my mistakes


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie -- I'll be interested to see your Caltracs installation as I've been considering the same thing on my pickup. I think your changes look great. We're essentially in the same boat on this one!

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

I think it's going to be alright. It's proven not to be so harsh over the past few days.

re stiffer = less traction, I'll find out. If so, I can live with that as long as the whole package equals more traction when I want it. Right now, it's pretty much nonexistent. There are other reasons that I leveled it, headlight adjustment, seating position, handling, looks, possible miniscule aerodynamic benefit. I know that until the traction bars are installed, anything else really won't do much. I'll be using Cal-tracs. They're proven at the Y-block shootout (and I'm sure elsewhere), even on one other truck, traction is possible with a truck, and they're a unique design that functions under load but don't really come into play with everyday driving so it should make for a nice street/strip combination. If it doesn't, then I'll do something else.


Lawrenceville, GA