I pulled out my old 272 (55 club sedan) some time ago. Reason - awful knocking sound and rear main seal that would not quit. Never thought to check the 55 Fordomatic flexplate until just the other day - it is loosey goosey at both ears, (3 hole ear, one top, one bottom, original to car). 272 does not use much oil, has good power, compression, etc.

Would the flexplate cause the knocking sound and how about that rms issue? Also, what is the application for the updated 4 hole flexplate I have heard rumors about, and can it be fitted to my original torque converter?

Dan

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Yes, Had that happen to me long time ago. I bought a newer flex plate and fixed the knock.  Gerry

Lake Forest California  5th inf 77 Armor Div. VN 68/69

If you put your town and state in your signature

help might be closer than you think.

Why fix a know bad part! Get the later type flywheel and be done with it. They pop up on EBAY quite often. Chuck's two bits

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks for the input - would this ever cause the rear main seal to leak?

Dan

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

This will ABSOLUTELY cause that knocking!  I just replaced my "eared" FP with the stamped 1 piece (I got mine from Tee-Bird products for about $60) and it was like magic - i had been through the whole motor twice over the years, and I knew all the bearings/etc. were good, but I couldnt get rid of that knocking sound.  new flex plate and all is great - silent (except for the music of solid lifters!)

Mine is in a '56 ford with a 292 and an air-cooled F/M, and the new flex plate bolted right up - no need for anything other than what tee-bird shipped me (some reinforcing rings for the center, but thats it)

As for the leaking, I highly doubt that it would cause a leaking rear main.  The looseness of the rivets on the mounting ears is so very little, that I have hard time beleiving that it would have enough wiggle to cause a problem.

I only wish I would have known this when I rebuilt the car in 2002....  I would have spent the $60 for the part gladly to not have to chase the sound!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

It wouldn't help it to have a vibration at the end of the crank shaft. There are neophreme seals available now for the Y-Blocks. See the Tech Article section off the main page
at: http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/replacemainseal.html

 They do the job. The rear main can be changed in the car but its a fun project. You need to remove the oil pan, loosen the crank shaft. Take out the rear seal retainer and go from there. If you have basic mechanic skills it shouldn't be a big problem just tedious!

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Believe me, I have replaced that rear main twice already. It holds for a few weeks, almost a month one time. Nice to know what that old knocking sound was. I will order one from T Bird products soon.

Should I check the main bearings and go from there, or should I look for an entire rebuild? I would like to get the car running again and then look to more in-depth restoration.

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com