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To stroke or not to stroke....

Posted By Nighthawk756 13 Years Ago
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Nighthawk756
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I've used the search function and done a lot of reading but still have some questions.

Ok, just to set the background, I have a '56 F100 I'm doing a full resto on. I'm still early in the build....I have it broke down with the cab loose. I'm about to carry the cab to be sandblasted, etch primed and then start repairing sheetmetal. If you haven't seen some of my other threads I pulled a 292 out of a 56 club sedan thunderbird special to go in it.

My budget isn't huge but it certainly isn't limited either. I work quite a bit of overtime to help fund my projects. But I'd like to save money where I can too. Every bit saved here helps buy the next part there so to speak.

In building this engine I want to walk that fine line between respectable HP/TQ and street driveability/reliability. I've built late model cars before and twice I've gone beyond this "line" and ended up with more than I really wanted or needed and driveability usually suffered.

With that said....I'd love to stroke it, get a set of aluminum heads/intake and go the whole nine yards but I'm trying to save some dough. Stroker kit and aluminum heads alone are over 4000 not counting machining. So I'm looking at which would be better for the wallet. Stroke or aluminum heads.

If I go stroker, I'm planning on a 318 kit, porting my 113 heads I got on the cheap, good cam, Mummert intake and probably Sanderson headers. I'll mill the heads a little but I don't want to go too high on compression and kill gas mileage. I'm thinking maybe in the 9.5 to 1 or less area. What ballpark numbers could I expect from that combo? Would it break 300? For some reason I have 350 stuck in my head for a goal but if I broke 300 I don't think I'd be dissappointed. It may take the aluminum heads to get to the 350 mark.

Or would I be better off going stock stroke and using the stroker money for the aluminum heads? I know doing both would be the best option but I'm trying to see where I can save and how much of an effect it will have on the build.

Thanks in advance guys!

Brad
Odenville, AL

1955 Fairlane Victoria
1956 Ford F100 (Restoration Underway....slowly Doze )
2006 F150 SuperCrew

Pete 55Tbird
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Bill

Remember you ASKED. First, its a truck not a gasser. If you want it to be street driven and not have the powerband start at 4500 RPM then aside from bragging rights why do you need aluminum heads?

When you mentioned you would like decent gas mileage then is stroking for you? Build a good motor for now and you can always add to it later if you want.

Like the man said " Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? " Just my opinion. Pete

aussiebill
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Pete 55Tbird (6/4/2012)
Bill

Remember you ASKED. First, its a truck not a gasser. If you want it to be street driven and not have the powerband start at 4500 RPM then aside from bragging rights why do you need aluminum heads?

When you mentioned you would like decent gas mileage then is stroking for you? Build a good motor for now and you can always add to it later if you want.

Like the man said " Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go? " Just my opinion. Pete

Have to agree somewhat, if gas milage is consideration, leave it alone, keep mods simple and efficient.Smile

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

Nighthawk756
Posted 13 Years Ago
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I have to admit...."bragging rights"?? Maybe a little....I've always been the type to try and get the most out of anything I build. So a little of that always tries to rear it's ugly head during projects. My friend's usually end up giving my projects names like "Project OCD" or "Project Snowball". 

Gas mileage isn't totally paramount but a few cars ago I ended up with 13 to 1 and I promised myself I'd never go there again. Of course, it WAS somewhat of a street/drag car but the compression turned it into a trailer queen. This truck will be a cruiser and I'll drive it long distances on occasion so that's the only reason gas mileage was even brought into the equation but it's not total priority. I'm just trying to find that happy, middle of the road combo. I just wanted to stay under 10 to 1 compression to get semi-decent mileage but boosting the compression a little from stock for better performance.

I just can't be very happy with a 200 hp engine. I want to give it a bit more hp but not overdo it either. If I was trying to build a concourse resto I'd be perfectly happy going stock and having stock HP. But this is more of a resto-mod where a little bit more HP is always welcome while keeping a somewhat stock look in certain areas. 

Brad
Odenville, AL

1955 Fairlane Victoria
1956 Ford F100 (Restoration Underway....slowly Doze )
2006 F150 SuperCrew

Glen Henderson
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Brad, I have got to agree with the above comments. Let me through a combo at you and see what you think.

Mummert .060 forged pistons

Mummert stock length rods

cam of your choice (with advice from cam grinder)

ECZ B intake with port matching and opening up the base to match modern holly carb

reworked stock dizzy

a good professional street port job on the 113"s

a good set of headers and exhaust

a few hours with a good tuner on a dyno

the above combo will yeild 301 ci and will yield 300 plus hp

then invest the extra money in either a AOD or T5

with this setup you have power and fuel economy in an affordable package, may even have some left over for dress up items.

Glen Henderson



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speedpro56
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Brad, everything said is true but I wouldn't discount the other either. In keeping everything stock in the shortblock with the exception of shotpeening the rods and using arps rod and main bolts the new aluminum heads and mummert intake without any extra work, I believe will put the engine way above 300+ horses and a excellent torque curve with the right cam. Ted already talked about this was like adding a supercharger without actually adding one. I think a cam in the neighborhood of .234 @ .050 with a running duration of 264 lobe sep around 110 ( this is a tight lash series Comp cam ) you should be in the best of both worlds of lots of real power and decent gas mileage as well.

-Gary Burnette-


Nighthawk756
Posted 13 Years Ago
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Thanks Glen and Gary....that's what I'm looking for....advice from guys here on combo ideas to keep me on the straight and narrow. You've been there before with these things and I haven't....so I'm leaning heavily on your expertise. 

Glen, I meant to call you and never did. I'll get on the horn with you in a day or so and mull some of this over if you have the time. Wink

Brad
Odenville, AL

1955 Fairlane Victoria
1956 Ford F100 (Restoration Underway....slowly Doze )
2006 F150 SuperCrew

charliemccraney
Posted 13 Years Ago
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For what it's worth, my mileage went up after stroking and porting and boring. I was pleasantly surprised. The compression increase probably did most of it but it has a lot to do with the way you drive. People who know about my type of truck would think it still has a 223 based on how "fast" I drive it - the sound gives it away, though. At about 350hp, you will be closer to hotrod territory but light duty truck stuff should be no problem if so desired.

If you're planning to pay to have your 113s ported, seriously consider aluminum heads. The cost will probably be just about the same.



If I were to choose between buying the parts to stroke or buy aluminum heads, I'd choose to stroke because you can't really hurt anything with more displacement and you get an automatic compression increase which all stock Ys can use. With the aluminum heads you will get a compression increase but it's not as effective as it may seem at first. That increase is to account for the heat loss due to the different metal, aluminum vs iron. If the heads are mismatched, you can loose a lot where you want it and heads are far easier to add later.


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slumlord444
Posted 13 Years Ago
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A 312 crank, rods, and .40 over pistons will get you 318 cubes without breaking the bank. As stated earlier here, mildly ported steel heads and a Mummert intake and large holley, and a good cam should get you 325 to 350 horses and save the $2200 for the aluminum heads. Of course when you add in a rebuild and port work on the steel heads that cuts the savings. Adding $$ adds horsepower.
Nighthawk756
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charliemccraney (6/4/2012)
For what it's worth, my mileage went up after stroking and porting and boring. I was pleasantly surprised. The compression increase probably did most of it but it has a lot to do with the way you drive. People who know about my type of truck would think it still has a 223 based on how "fast" I drive it - the sound gives it away, though. At about 350hp, you will be closer to hotrod territory but light duty truck stuff should be no problem if so desired.
If you're planning to pay to have your 113s ported, seriously consider aluminum heads. The cost will probably be just about the same.

If I were to choose between buying the parts to stroke or buy aluminum heads, I'd choose to stroke because you can't really hurt anything with more displacement and you get an automatic compression increase which all stock Ys can use. With the aluminum heads you will get a compression increase but it's not as effective as it may seem at first. That increase is to account for the heat loss due to the different metal, aluminum vs iron. If the heads are mismatched, you can loose a lot where you want it and heads are far easier to add later.

As far as the head porting....I got a quote from a Y block guy for $700 bucks including new stainless valves, new HP springs, hard Ex seats and stage 1 street port job. And I only paid $100 for the heads. So at $800 bucks it'll save me $1400(compared to aluminum)....that's why I'm leaning heavily that direction. That $1400 will almost pay for the stroker kit.

I never assumed that you would gain mileage with stroke. I thought opening up the heads and good headers probably would but not stroke. That's very interesting.

slumlord444 (6/4/2012)
A 312 crank, rods, and .40 over pistons will get you 318 cubes without breaking the bank. As stated earlier here, mildly ported steel heads and a Mummert intake and large holley, and a good cam should get you 325 to 350 horses and save the $2200 for the aluminum heads. Of course when you add in a rebuild and port work on the steel heads that cuts the savings. Adding $$ adds horsepower.

Yeah, I've been considering the 312 crank/rods route also. Decisions, decisions. Keep the suggestions coming guys! BigGrin

Brad
Odenville, AL

1955 Fairlane Victoria
1956 Ford F100 (Restoration Underway....slowly Doze )
2006 F150 SuperCrew



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