dbird from what little I've learned from the one guy I know has done this (Tom McCartney, a local tbird guy), A port-a-power doesn't seem necessary. Seems to me like miker has said it too, if the frame and axles are jacked up and stationary then loosen the body and move it. Tom said he did not remove the body bolts, just removed the nuts and slid it over.



I also thought about replacing the body insulators but haven't decided on that.



I am going to do this on my own so that makes it a pretty slow process. I've used up most of my friends when it comes to projects like this this and they can't be found.



I was thinking of using wooden shims to break the body tension from the frame and then maybe some lube in between things to relieve more tension. Then hopefully just shoving on the back fender will do it. (fingers crossed) but probably have to use some kind of leverage from underneath, or bottle jacks, don't know just have to try it.



I am also well aware of weak or rusted areas that may be lurking under there so I am keeping that in mind.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Seems like this thread has officially been hijacked, so I'm adding to it. Like Alan, I need to move my 55 Thunderbird body about 1/4 inch at the rear bumper. I've been planning on using several jacks, lifting the body just enough to clear the mounts, using a port-a-power to push the frame hoping the sidewalls (205-70) will flex that much, dropping and tightening. Is there anything besides the the body to frame bolts that needs to be loosened? I'm thinking this might be a good time to replace the rubber bushings, but that might bring a host of other problems. Any advice from those who have done it would help.



Thanks,

Don

I didn't have to pull the seat, I was able to get everything loose with it just raised and shifted fore and aft. I was lucky to have a 4 post lift, and with the weight on the wheels, and a lot of wood dunnage, I lifted the body mid door, and center trunk, and moved it sideways with a bottle jack and more 2x4's. There's more rust than I really want to know about, so I was real careful (and worried), but it moved real easy. 4 big friends would have been my first choice, but I only had one buddy available.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

yes, I am aware of those I count nine per side off the spec drawing I have. So, the seat has to come out but I figure I can just pull back the carpet on the remaining ones. Seems like a daunting task overall but everyone I've talked to said it is easy. Sounds like "Famous last words…" to me Also a lot of effort just to move the body over about 1/4 -to 3/16ths! But hey, I've dumber stuff.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Alan, the body shifts pretty easy, after you remember to loosen the two bolts behind the seat, as well as the rest of them. Don't ask how I know. The two inches you dropped also seems to confirm my old springs had been cut.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Alan,



That looks great. I think when you lower the back the front will come up a little. I started the Granada change but got waylaid replacing the water pump on the 65 Galaxie (352 with factory A/C). I ordered Aerostar springs form Rockauto on Thursday morning and were delivered Friday morning to my door. 53 bucks including shipping. I have thought about a narrowing the 57 9 inch rear end but too costly for now plus I am supposed to be getting the T-5 conversion going next.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I finally got around to installing the AeroStar springs yesterday. The front end dropped 2 inches. With stock spindles, ride is good Hotchkiss front sway bar and Bilstein shocks. Still road testing to make sure it's where I want it.

The back end is another story-I have to loosen the body mounts and skoot the body over to equalize tire clearance in back. fronts are 17x7 with 215/50R17 backs 17x8 with 255/50R17. Rearend is a new narrowed 9" with 3.50 trac lok and a Hotchkis four link. All the wheels are 0 backspace, and the backs just barely fit but moving the body over it will be just right. And then lower 1-2"s in back. Made one of those handy tools to pop open the ball joint from the spindle and it made the job a lot easier. Have to get better pics soon.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

Thanks for that Miker. I keep saying I am going to start the Granada disc thing, have all the parts ready but been waiting for the weather to turn truly winter. It rained for a couple days last week then back to 90 degrees, it's kind of crazy weather here. Don't want to miss out on some excellent beach cruising if it is still warm and clear. Supposed to turn wet again next week so after a full load of Tday dinner maybe my Black Friday will be to pull the brakes apart.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Based on my car, with the Aerostar springs, 225 60 15, 3.5" backspace, I think you'll be ok even with the Granada spindles. I've got power everything, and a/c, so the wieght is probably above average in front.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Thanks Alan, I have been looking at the Hotchkis website. Got the info there. I am going to try a set of Aerostar front springs along with the Granada front disc brake conversion on my 57 Bird. I like the stance on Skygazer's. I had cut one coil out of the stock front springs long ago but after installing aluminum heads, intake and Sanderson headers the front end came up significantly from the weight reduction. Don't know if I can get away with this setup with the 225-60 series Michelins and 15x7 Torque Thrusts. May have to be more careful on turning bumps and front fender clearance.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto