Mark, I was just looking at your pictures and it reminded me of when I put Granada discs on my RanchWagon the stock steel wheels would not fit over the Granada hub and I had to have them machined down to fit in the center of the wheel. The hub is just an RCH larger in diameter than the stock hub. May not be a problem for you but I thought I should mention it. Check your spare also if it is a stock wheel. be a bummer when out on the road to discover your spare doesn't fit.



If you are using aftermarket wheels it probably won't be a concern.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Thanks Steve, I bought this stuff off Ebay and the spindles don't have a visible part number that I can find so your explanation solves it. I think the Granada sized rotors will be fine in my case. After the holiday I think I can wrap this up fairly easily. Summit sells an adjustable brake push rod if needed. Will probably use the Granada combination valve as well. Merry Christmas to all.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

I believe that if you hunt around a bit and sort out the various disc brake knuckles of the era - you'll find that the Mustang (71-73), Maverick, Comet parts are just like the later Granada / Monarch pieces. The difference being the tie rod holes - the lower ball joint pin tapers are the same as the Granada. They are are often sold as the same part, raised spindle height is close to the same (lowers the car), strength is the same, etc. It's the reason this discrepency comes to light every so often. 

There are Mustang (and other Ford model) rotors with 11.19 OD discs - a bit more grip than the Granada - but gathering all of the proper matching calipers and bracketry can be a pain - unless you strip the donor yourself.    

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

One side assembled. Reamed the tie rod hole on the spindle to fit. Did it by hand to be careful not to over do it. Need to get some new spindle dust caps, and A-Arm bumpers to trim to the right size. The old ones are tired out. Got some plate to make the firewall reinforcement.





57 Black Tbird 312/auto

The plate is 1/4" The studs are actually countersunk head screws. You'll also need a countersink. A hole saw works great!



The stock plate is nearly identical. Only the spacing of the countersunk holes is different.










Lawrenceville, GA

Thanks for the photo. Seems a hole saw and some sheet metal would be enough to fabricate a plate like yours. Out of caution and fear of Murphy's law I reamed the spindle ball joint by hand. Took awhile reaming and fitting but it came out right. The tie rod threads don't come up enough to install the cotter pin but by my eyeball it doesn't look like it will take much reaming to get it in place.

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

If you don't have enough thread area to get the nut down and the cotter pin in, then you are correct. I had to slightly ream the tie rods holes in the spindle in my 54. It is ever so slight I did it by hand.



I put a plate between the master cylinder on the firewall, but the original intention was to provide a little more space between the master cylinder and the pushrod.



I traced the mounting surface of the old master cylinder onto a piece of paper and then onto the metal piece.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I did some rooting around on 57Fordforever.com and found some discussion about the need to ream the lower ball joint and the tie rod holes. The tie rod holes don't need as much reaming as the ball joints. Still looking around for more info. The tie rod studs don't come up far enough in the spindle, only about 1/4 inch or so above the top of the spindle. By my digital calipers, the lower diameter is close to the same measurement on both the original and Granada spindles. The Granada spindle tie rod mounting boss is taller than the Tbird by a 1/4 inch and the upper hole diameter is smaller than the Tbird. I am using the 57 Tbird tie rod ends.



57 Tbird tie rod specs



Part Number: NCP 2692240

Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts

Attributes:

Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .62"

Length (Dimension F) : 3.12"

Right or Left Hand Threads : LH

Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : .688" - 18

Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .57"

Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : .5" - 20

Taper Length (Dimension D) : .44"

Thread Type : Macho



Granada tie rod specs



Part Number: MRC ES445R

Product Line: Master Ride Chassis

Attributes:

Large Diameter Taper (Dimension B) : .62"

Length (Dimension F) : 4.5"

Right or Left Hand Threads : RH

Rod End Thread (Dimension A) : .688" - 18

Rod End Thread (Dimension E) : .5" - 20

Small Diameter Taper (Dimension C) : .55"

Stud Thread Size (Dimension E) : .5" - 20

Taper Length (Dimension D) : .55"

Thread Type : Macho

57 Black Tbird 312/auto

Tie-Rod ends should fit as is.The lower BJ holes in the spindle are the only holes that need reaming.

  

I don't think that's correct. I haven't heard of anyone reaming the tie rod holes?

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL